How to Visit Huashan Mountain and Walk China’s Plank Road

Huashan Mountain (Mount Hua) is one of China’s most famous mountains and home to the legendary Huashan Plank Road, often described as one of the world’s most thrilling hikes, and I can attest that standing 2 kilometers up a cliff face does make your heart race somewhat.  At just 120 kilometers (74 miles) from Xi’an, it’s a popular mountain to come to for a day trip, but it’s famous in its own right for its stunning and dramatic mountain scenery, challenging hiking trails, and, of course, the chance to experience the famous cliffside plank walk.  Here’s my guide on how to visit Huashan Mountain and how to walk China’s Plank Road.

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Whether you’re planning this as a day trip from Xi’an or considering an overnight stay on the mountain, I can truly say that hiking Huashan is one of my most memorable experiences in China.   And yes, the Plank Road was involved in that, but there’s actually a lot more here than just a few planks of wood more than a mile up a cliff face.  There are five peaks here, all connected by steep stairways, there are ridgeline trails and cable cars, and you can go from a relatively gentle sightseeing route to demanding multi-day hikes.

In this guide, I’ll share what it’s really like, how safe it is, how to get to Huashan from Xi’an, the best hiking routes, ticket prices, cable car options, and everything else you need to plan your visit.

Why Visit Huashan Mountain?

Huashan is one of China’s sacred mountains.  It fits into the category of China’s Great Mountains (as opposed to Sacred Buddhist or Sacred Taoist Mountains); Mount Hua is known as the Western Mountain.  Huashan is a rite of passage for many Chinese.  They climb the mountain from the bottom, often climbing through the night hours to see the sunrise at the top.  So whether you’re here for the Plank Road, just the hiking generally, or to knock off one of the Great Mountains, Huashan should be on your list.

We weren’t planning a nighttime trip.  Visiting during July meant that the likelihood of the weather being clear enough to see the sunrise was pretty low.  I also have no burning desire to climb this mountain in the dark.

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Huashan:  One of China’s Five Great Sacred Mountains

It’s about 120 kilometers (74 miles) east of Xi’an in Shaanxi Province, and for more than two thousand years, pilgrims, Taoist monks, and travelers have made the journey to the mountain.

What Makes Huashan Famous?

The fact that it’s so close to Xi’an is a big positive.  When we first visited, we took a bus (because of where we were staying in central Xi’an), but the high-speed trains from Xi’an North make it easy (and quick) to visit.

Then, when you arrive, the cable cars get you to the upper peaks without having to undertake a full climb.  That doesn’t mean that experienced hikers miss you, as it’s the traditional mountain routes that have given Huashan its legendary reputation.

For most international visitors, including us, the highlight is the famous Changkong Plank Road, often referred to as the Huashan Plank Walk.   It’s a series of wooden planks and metal rods suspended high (about 2 kilometers or 1.2 miles) above the valley floor.  They’re attached directly to the cliff face, and you’re attached to them.  And this narrow – I kid you not – one plank wide in place – is one of China’s most photographed adrenaline attractions.

Is Huashan Worth Visiting?

Even if the Plank Road isn’t your thing, then Huashan is still worth visiting. The mountain’s five main peaks are connected by scenic trails, steep staircases, and spectacular ridgelines that provide panoramic views across the surrounding countryside. Truly, it’s glorious.  And then there’s the opportunity for sunrise and sunset.  And yes, you can stay on the mountain to experience them.

Hotels on Huashan

Wanting to stay on the mountain?  Here are your options.

Huayin Five Cloud Mountain Inn:   Dorms and private rooms with shared bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Mount Hua East Peak Hotel:  – Twins, Queens and private bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Yuntai Villa:  Tents, Queens, Dorms available:  Shared bathrooms. Check rates and book here.

Huashan Xifeng Hotel:  Dorms and shared rooms, shared bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Where is Huashan Mountain?

Huashan Mountain is located in Shaanxi Province in central China, approximately 120 kilometers (74 miles) east of Xi’an. It is part of the Qinling Mountain range and is close to the city of Huayin, which is the main gateway for coming to the scenic area.

Thanks to China’s high-speed rail network, Huashan is one of the easiest major mountains in China to visit.  And you can get from Xi’an North (Xi’an Bei) Railway Station to Huashan North (Huashan Bei) Railway Station in as little as 30 minutes, making it possible to visit as a day trip from Xi’an.  There are also buses from central Xi’an, too; they take about 2 hours, but go straight to the Tourist Center and the Scenic Area, so it can be less hassle than the train option.

Your arrival point for starting a visit to Huashan depends on how you want to get to the top. 

• If you want to take a cable up, then you need to get to the Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center
• If you want to hike up the mountain, then go to the Jade Spring (aka Yuquan) Temple.  It’s about 3 kilometers (2 miles) from the Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center.

Most people come to the Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center.  From there, you can take a shuttle bus to one of the cable car stations.  Because yes, there are multiple cable cars up the mountain.  This is an enormously extensive mountain and hiking area.  Pretty much like all Chinese Mountains or National Parks its set up for a LOT of visitors.

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How to Get to Huashan from Xi’an

Xi’an is the starting point for making a trip to Huashan, and there are several easy transport options to Huashan from Xi’an.

High-Speed Train from Xi’an to Huashan

The train is the fastest, easiest, and most reliable way to reach Huashan.  However.  And there’s always a however.  The trains run from Xi’an North Railway Station, which is out beyond the third ring road.  You can take Metro Line 2 or 4 to Xianbei (Xi’an North) railway station stop, and the signs to the railway station are obvious.

Once you’ve got on the train, it takes about 30 minutes and trains run from 07:46 until 22:08, with VERY regular trains throughout the day.  You can check the timetable and book a train here.

Once you’ve arrived at Huashan North Railway Station, you have THREE choices of how to get to the Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center, two of which are free (as long as you have bought your ticket to Huashan Mountain).

Take a free Taxi from Huashan North Railway Station to Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center.

Free taxis board from 50 meters east of the station exit, and four people are required in each taxi – plus your ticket for Huashan, you just need to show the driver.  It takes about 10 minutes to get to the Visitor Center, and this service operates from 08:00 until 18:00/

Take a Free Shuttle Bus from Huashan North Railway Station to Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center

You’ll need your ticket for Huashan Mountain for this free ride as well, and you should go left out of the railway station and cross the road to the Huayin Bus Terminal.  Lines 1 and 2 go to the Visitor Center, and the journey takes about 30 minutes, with the buses leaving every 30 minutes and operating from 07:10 until 19:10.

Pay for a Taxi from Huashan North Railway Station to Huashan Scenic Area Visitor Center

If you want to travel outside of the free shuttle and taxi operating times, don’t want to wait in a line, or don’t yet have your ticket for Huashan Mountain, then take a 10-minute taxi ride to the Visitor Center.  It will cost about 14 CNY.  You can also use the ride-hailing app, Didi.

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Regular Train from Xi’an Railway Station to Huashan Railway Station

If you’re staying in the center of Xi’an and/or want a cheaper train ticket to get here, then head from Xi’an Railway Station to Huashan Railway Station. 

It’s about 30% of the cost to take the slower train from Xian to Huashan, but it takes FOUR times as long. So if you’re trying to make a day trip to Huashan from Xian, then this is a cheaper, but longer option. And there are 7 trains a day (the first is at 07:16, the last is at 16:48).  Check the schedule and book a ticket here.

Xi’an Railway Station is more centrally located in Xi’an, and can be reached by taking the Line 4 metro to Xianzhan (Xi’an Railway Station).

The downside of arriving at this train station is that there are no free shuttles or taxis to get to the Visitor Center, which is about a 25-minute walk from here.  If you don’t want to walk, then you’ll need to take the 3 CNY bus number 608 to the Huashan Tourist Center. A taxi will cost around 10 CNY.  You can also use the ride-hailing app, Didi.

Take the Bus from Xi’an to Huashan

Two coach stations in Xi’an operate the route to Huashan.  Xi’an Coach Station and the Fangzhicheng Coach Station.  Buses from these stations go directly to the Huashan Visitor Center, and the journey takes about 2 hours and costs 41 CNY.

• The Xi’an Bus Station is located 10 minutes’ walk from Exit C of the Xi’an Railway Station Metro Station (Line 4).
• Fangzhicheng Bus Station is at Exit D of Fangzhicheng Station (Metro Line 1).

Bus times from Xi’an to Huashan

• Xi’an Bus Station to Huashan Visitor Center:  08:30, 12:30, 15:30, 19:00
• Fangzhicheng Coach Station to Huashan Visitor Center:  08:40, 11:30, 13:10, 15:30, 17:30

If you’re planning on using the bus to return to Xi’an, then the last buses depart Huashan for Xi’an around 18:00.  Confirm this and book your return ticket (or use the train) before you leave the Visitor Center.

Take a Taxi or Didi from Xi’an to Huashan

For ultimate flexibility, take a taxi or a Didi to Huashan from Xi’an.  It takes between 90 minutes and 2 hours and will cost 270 CNY upwards, but shared between 3 or 4 people its quite reasonable.  Don’t forget to factor in your return to Xi’an.

Organised Tours from Xi’an

If you’d prefer someone else to handle the logistics, there are numerous day tours available from Xi’an.  Most tours include transport, entrance tickets, and an English-speaking guide.

You can book organised tours by all the usual places – Getyourguide, Viator and Trip, but Klook has the easiest to understand options when it comes to clarity of offering.

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Can You Visit Huashan as a DIY Day Trip?

Yes. Most visitors experience Huashan as a day trip from Xi’an.  We did.  And we were very happy with the experience.  Get an early train or bus, and you’ll have enough time to explore the mountain, ride cable cars, and even walk the Plank Road before heading back to Xi’an in the evening.

If you want to spend longer on the mountain or see sunrise or sunset, then you’ll need to stay overnight in either Huayin or at one of the hotels on the mountain, and you will NEED to book early for this.

Most people, though, visit as a day trip and return to their hotel in Xi’an on the same day.

Huashan Entrance Fees, Tickets, and Opening Hours

There’s not just a single ticket for Huashan, unless you have a combo tour – like this one – booked.  You’ll need transport tickets, cable car tickets if you’re using them AND an entrance ticket. Entrance tickets are valid for 48 hours, so they cover you for an overnight stay on Mountain Huashan.  However if you are planning on night hiking then you also need a ticket for that.

Huashan Entrance Ticket Prices

All visitors must purchase an entrance ticket to access the Huashan Scenic Area, and it’s valid for 48 hours.  There are different prices depending on the time of year.  You can buy your ticket online here with Trip.com

• CNY 100 from December until February
• CNY 160 from March until November

There are discounts for children.  U6 is free.  Over 65 get free access to the mountain (but will need to pay 50% for a cable car ticket), but all need a ticket booking online.  Check prices, and include cable car tickets here.

Shuttle Bus Tickets from the Visitor Center to the Cable Car Stations

Once you’ve arrived at the Visitor Center, you’ll need to get to one of the Cable Car Stations.  You have a choice of walking or taking a shuttle bus. 

• It is about a 20-minute walk from the Visitor Center to the North Peak Cable Car Station
• It is about a 40-minute walk from the Visitor Center to West Peak Cable Car Station

If you’re planning to use the cable cars, the shuttle bus is the quickest and easiest way to reach the cable car departure stations. Don’t forget to include your shuttle bus ticket.

Huashan Cable Car Prices

Huashan has two cable car systems serving different parts of the mountain.

The North Peak Cable Car is shorter and generally less expensive. It’s a popular option for visitors who want to reduce the amount of climbing while still experiencing the mountain’s trails.  We took the North Peak Cable Car up.  And the North Peak back down.  We should have gone up on the West Peak and down on the North.

The West Peak Cable Car travels much higher into the mountain and offers some spectacular views during the journey. Cable car tickets are sold separately from both the entrance ticket and the shuttle bus tickets.

Buy Mt Huashan Entrance Tickets, Cable Car, and Shuttle Tickets here.

Where to Buy Huashan Tickets

Tickets can usually be purchased at the visitor Center on arrival, but booking in advance gives you a bunch of benefits.  You’ll get free shuttle buses or taxis from Xi’an Bei Railway Station. If you’ve already bought tickets, you’ll save time and a lot of lining up.

If you’re booking a guided tour from Xi’an, entrance fees, transport, and cable car tickets are often included as part of the package. Always check exactly what’s covered before booking, as inclusions vary between different offerings.

What Time Does Huashan Open?

The mountain is open 24 /7 for hikers.

The Huashan Tourist Center opens for cable car check-in and boarding from 07:00 until 16:00 between March and November, and from 07:00 until 16:00 from December until February.

Huashan Cable Cars Explainer

Most visitors to Huashan use the cable cars to get themselves further up the mountain, and there’s a big difference between the two cable cars.

The North Peak Cable Car at Huashan

The North Peak Cable Car is the older and shorter of the two systems.  The journey time is about 10 minutes.  It saves between 4 and 6 hours of hiking upwards, but even so, once you get out at the top of the Huashan North Peak Cable Car, there’s still a lot of hiking involved.

Use the North Peak route when you want to experience the mountain’s traditional trails while avoiding the longest and steepest lower sections.

The West Peak Cable Car at Huashan

The West Peak Cable Car is the more impressive option, and the one many first-time visitors choose.  It takes you a LOT further up the mountain, and the ride time is 30 minutes.  We rode it down.  The views during the ride are spectacular, with cliffs, ridgelines, and valleys stretching out below.

If your goal is to visit several peaks, see the Plank Road, and return to Xi’an in a single day, the West Peak Cable Car is the most time-efficient option.

Which Cable Car is Best?

For most visitors, the West Peak Cable Car is the better option.  It gets you higher up into the mountains.  And yes, you can take it back down as well.  The North Peak Cable Car is better suited if you want a more challenging hiking experience and don’t mind hiking further.

Can You Visit Huashan without Hiking?

Yes, although you’ll still need to do some walking.  Even if you use cable cars for both ascent and descent, Huashan is not a destination where you simply step off and admire the view. The peaks are connected by stairways, ridges, and walking trails, and reaching the Plank Road needs even more hiking.

Huashan Mountain Map and Peaks

Huashan is much larger than many visitors expect. Rather than being a single summit, the mountain consists of five main peaks connected by a network of trails, stairways, and ridgelines. Understanding the layout before you arrive will help you plan your route and decide how much hiking you want to do.

Most visitors enter via the visitor center before traveling to either the North Peak or West Peak cable car stations. From there, the various peaks can be explored on foot.

Huashan’s North Peak

North Peak is the first peak visitors encounter when arriving via the North Peak Cable Car.  At 1,614 meters (5295 feet), it is the lowest of Huashan’s five major peaks but still offers pretty amazing views, and it also used to be the main access point for those using the traditional hiking route.

Huashan’s East Peak

East Peak is best known as the mountain’s sunrise viewpoint.  And it’s here that you’ll find the places to stay on the mountain, because that’s primarily why you’ll stay on Huashan, to experience the sunrise.  We took in the sunrise at Huangshang Mountain (and you can read about that here).  East Peak is 2,090 meters (6856 feet) and is generally accepted as having the best views of all of Huashan’s peaks on clear days.

This is near where you’ll stay if you plan on overnighting on the mountain.

Hotels on Huashan:

Wanting to stay on the mountain?  Here are your options.

Huayin Five Cloud Mountain Inn:   Dorms and private rooms with shared bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Mount Hua East Peak Hotel:  – Twins, Queens and private bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Yuntai Villa:  Tents, Queens, Dorms available:  Shared bathrooms. Check rates and book here.

Huashan Xifeng Hotel:  Dorms and shared rooms, shared bathrooms available. Check rates and book here.

Huashan’s South Peak

South Peak is the highest point on Huashan, at 2,154 meters (7066 feet) above sea level.  And this is where you find the entrance to the famous Plank Road.   And this makes South Peak one of the busiest areas on the mountain, especially at weekends and holidays.

Huashan’s West Peak

West Peak at Huashan is known for steep cliffs and panoramic views.  This is where the West Peak Cable Car arrives.  West Peak’s top reaches 2082 meters (6830 feet) above sea level.

Huashan’s Central Peak

Central Peak sits in the middle of the other summits, and while it’s sometimes overlooked, it does provide a good connector to the various hiking routes across the mountain.

Recommended Route around Huashan

The best route is to take the West Peak Cable Car up, explore West Peak, continue to South Peak – take in the Plank Road if you’re planning to, then visit East Peak before making your way towards North Peak for the descent.

This route means you get to see the highlights while avoiding the long haul up from the bottom, or the harder climb up from the top of the North Peak Cable Car.   If you’re planning a stay overnight, then it breaks your trip in two, as you’ll stop near the East Peak for the hotels there.

You can easily add the remaining peaks and explore more of the mountain’s extensive trail network.

Hiking Huashan Mountain

Even if you use the cable cars at Huashan (which most people do), you’ll get a lot of hiking in.  Although hiking on these Chinese mountains involves a lot of steps, stone staircases – both up and down, and not what I’d call traditional hiking as we’d do in Europe.  The trails here combine steep stone staircases, narrow ridgelines, and spectacular viewpoints.  It is challenging, but you don’t need “mountaineering” experience.  The trails are well-maintained (think concrete), clearly marked, and used by thousands of visitors every year. The challenge is the sheer number of steps and the elevation gain rather than any technical climbing.  Steps down are also hard work, because you’ll be tired and your calves will be aching somewhat!

The Traditional Huashan Trail

If you want to make a pilgrimage of it, then the classic Huashan hike starts at the base of the mountain and follows the historic route used by pilgrims for centuries.  This trail climbs continuously through a series of steep staircases and narrow passages before reaching North Peak. Along the way, you’ll pass famous sections such as Thousand-Foot Precipice and Hundred-Foot Gorge, both known for their steep ascents and dramatic scenery.  Hiking from the base to North Peak can take anywhere from four to six hours, depending on your fitness level.

How Difficult is the Huashan Hike?

Huashan is particularly physically demanding but not technically difficult.  The biggest challenge is the relentless climbing.  You’ll need a reasonable level of fitness.  Using the cable car will help, but you’ll still need decent fitness to explore the mountain.

How Long Does it Take to Hike Huashan?

It depends on the route you choose.  If you’re using the cable cars and exploring the main peaks, you can easily do Huashan in a full day.  If you’re going to hike from the base, then expect either a much longer day or to stay overnight.  Check hotels on Huashan here

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The Huashan Plank Walk Experience

If you’ve seen photos of Huashan online, chances are you’ve already seen the Plank Road.

Officially known as the Changkong Plank Road, this narrow wooden walkway clings to the side of a sheer cliff on South Peak. It has become one of China’s most famous attractions and regularly appears on lists of the world’s most dangerous hikes.

After seeing the photographs, I knew I wanted to try it for myself.  And yes.  The reality is every bit as dramatic as it looks.

What is the Changkong Plank Road?

The Plank Road is a series of wooden boards, metal poles, and chains attached directly to the cliff face of the South Peak of Huashan. It was originally built by Taoist monks more than 700 years ago and was used to reach a small temple hidden on the mountainside.

Today, the route has been modernized somewhat and operates as a controlled (and paid-for) attraction within the Huashan Scenic Area. You wear safety harnesses attached to steel cables as you go down and along the “trail”.  The path is narrow, exposed, and suspended hundreds of meters above the valley floor, making it one of the most memorable experiences on the mountain.

Buying Tickets for the Plank Road

You can get tickets for the Plank Road on the mountain and tickets for the Plank Road cost 30 CNY. 

There are some tickets made available online, but they are only purchaseable once you’ve arrived at the mountain – via the official WeChat Account, and some are available in person when you get there.  This is the official WeChat account –  华山景区  – (see image below), but be aware I couldn’t get this to work at all. 

Walking the Plank Road

Getting to the Plank Road requires some effort in itself.   First of all, you need to get to South Peak, and from there it’s about a 20-minute walk.  It takes about an hour from East Peak, or it’s 30 minutes from West Peak.

You buy tickets for the Plank Road on the Mountain when you get to the entrance to it.  And queues can be long, especially during weekends and Chinese public holidays. 

Once you’ve got your ticket, read the safety notice, you’ll get fitted with a safety harness, you’ll clip onto a steel cable, and begin making your way down the cliff face. In some places, the wooden planks are only wide enough for a single person, which means that passing other visitors is an interesting experience.

Safety Equipment and Harnesses on the Plank Road

Every visitor is required to wear a safety harness.  These harnesses clip onto steel cables that run the entire length of the route. As you move along the cliff face, you’ll transfer your safety clips between sections of cable.  You’ll DEFINITELY need a head for heights; the clip-on system gives you a measure of protection.

Is the Huashan Plank Walk Dangerous?

The Huashan Plank Road is often described as the world’s most dangerous hike, but that reputation is a little misleading.  It definitely feels like you’re doing something dangerous, yes.  If you don’t like heights, then this is NOT for you.  The safety harnesses will keep you tied onto the chains, and there are staff around, who, I’m sure, will help if you get stuck.

Why Does Huashan Have Such a Dangerous Reputation?

Most of Huashan’s reputation comes from photographs and the internet.   Images of visitors standing on narrow wooden planks with a sheer drop beneath them look terrifying, and it’s easy to understand why the route regularly appears in lists of the world’s most dangerous walks.

How Safe is the Plank Road Today?

For most people, the biggest danger is losing confidence or panic rather than losing their footing.  If it’s wet, I wouldn’t want to be up there, but they do tend to close the plank road when there are strong winds or storms.  So if it’s open, then they’ve generally decided that it’s safe for visitors.

Who Should Avoid the Plank Road?

If you have a fear of heights, you will find the experience more stressful than enjoyable. I doubt you’ll get down the first ladder.  If you have any mobility problems, then this isn’t for you.  Nigel doesn’t always like heights, and so he avoided it, staying with my daypack while I explored the Plank Road.

Is the Plank Road Worth It?

Oh yes.  I loved it.  It definitely made my heart pound, but that wasn’t through exertion, more through “what the hell am I doing?” and looking down.  I mean, you have to, don’t you?

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The Huashan Sky Ladder

While the Plank Road gets most of the attention, the other attraction here is the Sky Ladder.  And we did NOT attempt this.  Primarily because I didn’t think I could haul myself up it, which is interesting, because I had no problems at all with the Sky Ladder at Tiger Leaping Gorge.  I think the issue I had was because the ladders at Tiger Leaping Gorge were metal-framed. Here, it’s stone and metal chains, and the metal chains move.

The Sky Ladder is known for its near-vertical ascent.  We looked at it from the bottom, and you can see why it gets its name.  It looks more like a ladder than a staircase, the steep stone steps disappearing almost straight into the cliff face above.  I found it a lot more intimidating than the Plank Road.  Looking down from the top to me looked worse than looking up at the bottom. 

What is the Huashan Sky Ladder?

The Sky Ladder is a steep flight of stone steps carved directly into the mountainside, with chains that run along the sides of the steps that you use to haul yourself up.  It’s not very long, and won’t take you much time to go up, but, yeah, not for me.

How Difficult is the Sky Ladder?

The difficulty comes from the angle rather than the distance.  It’s a short section, but you need to haul yourself up on the chains.  I wouldn’t want to go up it, and I definitely wouldn’t want to go down it.  Check out the photos and decide for yourself.

Sky Ladder vs Plank Road

If you’re trying to decide which is more frightening, the answer depends on your personal fears.  Mine were clear chains and stone steps! 

The Plank Road feels exposed because of the cliff edge and the vast drop below your feet. The Sky Ladder feels intimidating because of its steepness and the sensation of climbing almost vertically up the mountain.  I started it, got about three steps up, and decided it wasn’t for me.  There’s no safety harness at the Sky Ladder, but for me, the Plank Road felt easier to do.

Our Experiences on Huashan Mountain

We’d taken the 08:00 bus from Xi’an, the first bus out, and once we arrived at the visitor center and took the shuttle bus to the North Peak Cable Car deciding to come back down the same way.  Retrospectively, we should have taken one cable up and the other down.  But you know, hindsight.

Anyways, the North Peak Cable Car arrives at a much lower “top of the mountain” than the West Peak Cable car, which still means you have several kilometers to go. And that means up.  For us, that means about another 2 hours hiking up to the East Peak, our first stop.

Arriving at the top of the North Peak Cable Car

We arrived “at the top” of the cable car after a 10-minute trip, and our first choice was either to head up the North Peak or head towards the East Peak.  If you want to hike the North Peak, then do it first.  You won’t feel like it on the way back down.  However, don’t underestimate the amount of time it will take to hike this mountain.

There are maps and signposts when you’re on the mountain, and they “pretty much” direct you along the way.  They indicate how long each part should take – that’s based on the “going up time”, but in terms of directions, they’re not great.  Times, yes, direction no.

And so we set off.  Huashan is really just the world’s biggest Stairmaster. There are literally kilometers of steps. And these aren’t uniform steps. They’re half-size, quarter-size, they’re not straight.  They’re designed for one person when three are trying to use them. It’s not designed for your Western-sized feet.

You might be climbing in your Merrells, but the woman in front of me at one point had heeled platform wedges on, which does make you feel somewhat inadequate. I don’t think I saw flip-flops, but pretty much anything goes.

We took snacks with us, some bizarre “cheese” sandwiches, which were more like banana spread on white bread, and some biscuits.  You can, of course, buy snacks on the mountain, and also hats and white gloves. Not because this is a Michael Jackson tribute area, but because a lot of the paths and climbs on Huashan are bordered by chain link handholds.  You’ll definitely use them. The gloves will protect your hands and also stop them from slipping.

They would have been useful if we‘d decided to go up (or down) the Sky Ladder (we didn’t)

We were heading across Jinsuo Pass and the Canglong Mountain, which was basically up, up, up, down a little.  It’s just evil because you have to go back up again. (It’s a bit like hiking in Nepal in that respect).

Deciding against the Sky Ladder

We went up a stone staircase, and then, after an attempt at the Sky Ladder, I backed down.  The cliff is just about vertical, and you have to pull yourself up on the chains, leaning out to pick up the next chain.

After a couple of hours, we made it to Huashan’s East Peak and then headed arrived at the Golden Lock Pass, where you need to decide whether to turn left for the Plank Road, or right to head to the West Peak area.   And so we headed towards the Plank Road.

Walking the Plank Road

Even getting to the line, you have to walk along the cliffside.  It’s a path that’s no more than 18 inches wide.  You must negotiate with folks who have either already been or chickened out.

There is a sturdy-looking fence, but still.

There were two Chinese girls in the line in front of me. The line started just outside a small temple, where folks who were on the plank road had left their bags.  We waited. Perhaps 10 minutes, which feels like a lifetime, as you’re looking over the edge, watching folks climbing down and considering how far up you actually are.

And those are just planks of wood.

And it is literally that. A small plank path, around 30 centimeters (less than 12 inches) wide, was built onto the side of the mountain. You climb down onto the path using a series of “steps”, made of metal poles drilled into the rocks. You climb down these steps as the mountain curves inwards, and you cling, anxiety rising, feeling for the next foothold, which cunningly is off to the left.

And that’s before you get to the Plank Road.

The Plank Road doesn’t extend very far, perhaps 130 meters (426 feet). At the end of the “road”, you climb up steps cut into the rock, and unclip your safety belt.  You can then walk to the small flat area for a different view of the mountain.

But you’re not done yet. Your way out is back the way you’ve come.

And don’t be thinking that the line of people behind you waits until you’re back. Nope, you’ll have people behind you and in front of you. When you’re on the way out, some will be on the way back.

There are no specific laybys or passing places. There are two differing height wire safety cables. You clip onto these with your safety harness that is strapped around you like an ill-fitting life jacket.

You have two lines, always keeping one clipped on, because this isn’t a continuous wire that you’re clipped to. It’s a series of wires. So you have to clip and unclip perhaps 20 times on your trip, often stretching for the next wire.

Often, other plank walkers will help and clip and unclip you. Thanks, folks, it’s not that I don’t trust you, but the clips didn’t always close properly…

Stepping onto the stair rods to climb down was, I thought, the hardest part. There’s a line of people ahead of you, well, underneath you. Despite there being only two girls in front of me in the line to pay our 30 CNY for the use of the safety harness, there were still people on the ladder. Some are going up, and some are going down. The stair rods are about 60 centimeters (24 inches) wide at most. Please, God, let me not meet a big fat person. Please.

I climbed down onto the stair rods and climbed down perhaps three and… stopped. It narrowed. People were coming up.  Someone at the bottom (it’s about 9 meters (30 feet) down to the plank road) was having problems negotiating the turn.

We were jammed. And now all I’m thinking is that I can’t actually get out of this. I can’t turn around; all I can do is go on.

But strangely, I’m not scared. I’m not even considering how far down it is if I fall. I’m thinking, do I have the nerve to let go, take my phone out of my pocket, and take photos?

What seems like an age passes, and people squeeze past. They’re all grinning and not hysterically. That buoys you on. I get almost to the bottom and can’t find the next step.

My left leg is waving around mid-air, and my hands are starting to slide on the chain link handrail. A returnee guides my foot, and I breathe again, smiling at my savior. I can help the person behind me by doing the same for them.

And, clipping onto the new horizontal, not vertical safety wire, I set off.

A few meters further on, I meet my first obstacle. A returning group of three people. Go round us, they say. Waving me past on the OUTSIDE OF THEM. The look on my face convinces them that it is NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. Especially as two of them are standing behind each other, and I would have to step out mid-air to get around them. They inch past me, as I plaster myself to the face of the mountain, and my first obstacle is overcome, and I open my eyes again.

As you look down, you see that the Plank Road isn’t just a single plank; it’s two or three pieces of wood that form the path. You can see there’s nothing underneath, well apart from the bottom of the mountain. You can’t see the bottom of the mountain, it’s too far down. About 2,000 meters (that’s a long, long way in non-metric numbers – about 6,500 feet).

It’s actually fun. There are other folks returning, and it becomes a little easier. As there are two safety wires on different levels, it’s not necessary to unclip them to step around me, so long as you’re both not using the same level wire, of course!

About halfway along the road, there’s a small recess in the cliff, with a printer, a laminating machine, and a small stool. There’s a Chinese guy sitting in there, laminating photos. This is his office. His job is to take photos of us plank walkers and sell them to us for 30 CNY each. How can you have got this far and not do that?

He asks me if I want a photo, yes, yes, I say, so he waves me on past him.  I think, but surely you need to be ahead of me to take a photo, and he blithely clips on and literally swings out around me.  He then bounds a little way UP the mountain and yells at me to swing out and hold my arms out. I swear I thought my arm holding on was extended in the photo. Clearly, my brain was playing tricks on me. But here’s my 30 CNY photo. My less than US$10 in total experience. (I’m not counting the rest of the costs for visiting Huashan!)

After that, it seems easy. Shuffle, shuffle, clip, clip, negotiate with the returnee, shuffle a little more. Clamber up the rock footholds at the end and have a wander around.  Take a few photos to prove I was here, although it’s pretty overcast, so I think I could be anywhere, and then head back.

Heading back, I take more note of the cables and how they’re attached to the mountain, yes, yes, that looks secure, and I feel a little better than using the blind faith I’d employed on the way out.

As a returnee, it’s my job to step out and around the folks who are heading out. And you know, actually, now it’s easy. What had seemed like an insurmountable task on the way out now seems, well, yes, easy. Adrenalin is a wonderful thing; we should bottle it.

My photo is ready as I now walk more confidently back past the photo recess, and it’s now tucked into my pocket. Clearly, now I’m confident enough to take both hands off the chain hand holds to grab the money out of my pocket, count it, and hand it over. I even gave him the right change.

All that remains is to negotiate the turn at the bottom of the stair rods and join the line to go up. Clipping on and off is harder going up, as the carabiners slip down and catch. There’s a blockage halfway up, as folks have jammed themselves a little too close together, my fingers come within millimeters of feet, and the universal language of “ah ah” comes into play.

Then I’m at the top, unclipping my harness, showing Nige the photo, grinning widely, wondering what all the fuss was about.

Descending Huashan

The Plank Road isn’t part of the “route around the top of Huashan” – it’s on the way to West Peak, and it’s not necessary to walk the Plank Road to summit the mountain. For many (including me), it’s one of the main reasons for heading to the mountain.

For me, it combined conquering fear and dropping another item into the Bucket List in one. Now all that remained was to return to the bottom in time to catch a bus.

Going down should be so much easier than going up, right? Ha. Yeah, right. Remember those uneven, small, not uniform steps? Going down, you’re going to be walking sideways, you’ll just get your heels on the steps, and most times, if you do that, you’ll be slipping off the step. You’ll be competing with the families that hold hands on the way and those still coming up. You’ll also be competing with time because it ticks away pretty quickly, waiting in that line for the Plank Road, and then walking it.

Stopping for a break mid-way down, my legs actually trembled as I considered how much my calves would be aching over the next few days. The line at the cable car took around 35 minutes for us to be in a car and heading down.

We then ran for the shuttle bus, which took around 15 minutes to deposit us not quite back to where we’d started, but to a parking lot, where a guy yelled into the shuttle bus selling tickets to Xi’an for 35 CNY on a different bus to that we came on.

It was an expensive but pretty damned spectacular day.

What to Pack for Huashan

What you pack for Huashan will depend on the season and the route you plan to take, but there are a few essentials that you’ll need.  Even if you’re using the cable cars, expect to spend several hours walking on steep stairways and mountain trails.

Footwear

We saw people walking in platform wedges (!).  But yeah, don’t do that.  The trails here consist largely of stone steps, uneven surfaces, and steep inclines.   I suggest at least a decent pair of sports sandals, but lightweight hiking shoes definitely.  While we hiked Huangshang in the rain, I wouldn’t want to be on Huashan in rainy conditions.

Water and Snacks

Bring water, but you will be able to buy it on the mountain.  C’mon, this is a Chinese mountain; you can buy anything on the mountain, but snacks are definitely what the domestic visitor prefers, and that might not be to your taste.  The prices rise the higher up the mountain you go.

Gloves for Chains and Handrails

A surprisingly useful item is a pair of lightweight gloves.  Lots of the route involved holding chains, railings, and metal handholds while climbing steep sections of trail.  And a lot of them are slippery, sweaty even.  Gloves would have made a difference.  And yes, you can buy them on the mountain if you don’t bring them.

Clothing and Weather Protection

Layers, layers, layers.  This is definitely a mountain for layers.  For all the heat you’ll generate going up the mountain, a stiff breeze will definitely take that away at the top.  And you’ll cool down a lot on the way down.

Other Useful Items

• Portable power bank for your phone and camera.
• Sunscreen and sunglasses.
• Small backpack for water and extra layers.
• Cash and Alipay/WeChat/WePay app for paying.
• Camera or smartphone with plenty of storage space.

FAQ About Visiting Mt. Huashan

Here’s our collection of frequently asked questions about visiting Mount Huashan.  Got more?  Drop us a comment, and we’ll answer it.

How High is Huashan Mountain?

Huashan’s highest point is South Peak, which stands at 2,154 meters (7066 feet) above sea level.

How Long Does it Take to Visit Huashan?

You can spend as little as half a day here, but most visitors spend between 5 and 8 hours on the mountain when using the cable cars.  If you plan on hiking from the bottom, then you’ll need at least a full day, or to start in the dark.

Can Beginners Hike Huashan?

Yes.  But it will be tough.  It is a physically demanding mountain to hike, even though the trails are well-maintained and well-marked.  There is a lot of concrete here.  Concrete steps.  Steps cut into the rock.   And don’t forget you need to get down the mountain as well.  Even back down to the top of the cable car station is a tough day out.

Do You Need a Guide for Huashan?

No.  Huashan is easy to visit independently, and lots of visitors make the journey from Xi’an without joining a tour. Signage is generally good, and the mountain’s main routes are straightforward to follow.

Can You Visit Huashan Without Doing the Plank Road?

Absolutely.  The Plank Road is only one small part of the Huashan experience. There’s definitely enough mountain to keep you occupied without attempting the Plank Road.

Is the Plank Road Included in the Entrance Ticket?

No.  You need a separate ticket for the Plank Road.  Buy it at the entrance to the Plank Road, near the South Peak.

Is Huashan Better Than Huangshan?

They’re very different experiences.  Huangshan is famous for its granite peaks, sea-of-cloud views, and distinctive pine trees. Huashan is known for its dramatic cliffs, steep stairways, and adrenaline-filled hiking routes.

If you’re looking for classic Chinese mountain scenery, Huangshan is better; if you want the adrenaline of the Plank Road and a more challenging hiking experience, Huashan is better.

Can You Visit Huashan in One Day from Xi’an?

Yes.  Using either the bus or the high-speed train makes Huashan one of the easiest day trips from Xi’an, but I’d suggest you make it an early start.

Is Huashan Worth Visiting?

Definitely.  Even if you don’t want to walk the famous Plank Road, coming to one of China’s Sacred Mountains is well worth it.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Huashan

Huashan is one of those places that really lives up to its reputation.  We visited because of the Plank Road, and that was an amazing experience, but the time we spent there paled into insignificance compared to the time we spent hiking the rest of the mountain.  The trails are not technically difficult, but they’ll give you a serious workout.  The views are spectacular, and the entire experience is well worth the effort.

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