We’ve discovered (and I suspect we’re not the first) that the way to survive and embrace India is to make sure you take time out every now and then and occasionally have a little more luxury. Pondicherry was our next escape. This time, to a mini French enclave for a few days.
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Pondicherry (or Puducherry) is in the Union State of India and is a culture shock after Tamil Nadu.
History of Pondicherry
During its history, Pondicherry has been controlled by both Portugal and Britain but it was the French who left the biggest mark on the place. The French first arrived in 1670 and did not finally leave until 1954 and Pondicherry finally became an integral part of India in 1963 after the signing of a formal treaty between India and France.
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Arriving in Pondicherry
This former little bit of France now has something of a faded glory about it. It’s a little bit hippy, a little bit chic – no doubt due to the famous Sri Aurobindo Ashram and the nearby Auroville and the large number of artists who converge here along with those finding themselves.
Here can be found cheaper alcohol, steak, clean streets, and mercifully car (and motorbike) free streets.
Despite the trials of the “last seat” from Kanyakumari to Madurai it didn’t put us off the bus system, so we found ourselves arriving on an overnight bus from Madurai to Pondicherry.
We left at around 10 pm and arrived in Pondicherry just after 5 am, at the cost of 550 INR (US$8.67, GBP 5.62 each).
We didn’t get much, if any sleep, and the stops towards the end seemed pretty frequent, in our up on the top deck, double compartment, but at least we were here.
There’s something about arriving in a new place before dawn. You get to see her without her makeup. Especially when you arrive near a bus station, because bus stations are always in the ‘real’ part of a town or city. There’s the feeling that some folks are on their way home. Some are waking and starting the day and we’re just feeling our way in, slowly and cautiously.
We ignore all offers from the auto-rickshaw guys, strap on the backpacks, trust in the GPS and take a wander towards the French Quarter.
We’ve short listed a few places to stay and in this pre dawn time, we plan to walk slowly past them, figure out what they really look like and then hit up our favorite with a cash, bargaining deal. First though, we negotiate those sleeping on the streets, dodge the cows meandering in the dark and push our way through the busy streets by the market that’s setting up for the morning.
The promenade in Pondicherry is free from vehicles between the hours of 6pm and 7.30 am.
It’s a wonderful place, folks are walking, talking and there’s no incessant horn blasting, no high pitched whine of rickshaws.
We watch the sun rise at the Le Cafe and breakfast slowly.
Our negotiating skills amount to nothing at the Lotus Bay View Hotel. This is nothing new in India. Online, ahead of time is always the way to get the BEST deal in our experience. It’s also much less painful. The staff here tell us that the best deal to be had is on online, and ask if we want to use their wifi to book. So we do. They let us check in a couple of hours early and we take to the welcome shower before exploring Pondicherry.
Exploring Pondicherry
There’s such a marked difference between the French areas and the Indian areas of the city. There’s little traffic here, the streets are litter free. They’re quiet.
There’s a continental feel to the place, street names in French and in a French style.
Cafes are just that – set in courtyards, with wifi and planted greenery.
A distinct lack of India here in the heart of India. We’re in the Union Territory here, so if you find the right place the beer is cheap, we found that in the Continental Rooftop Restaurant, where Indians and backpackers mix, where Kingfisher beer is 65 INR for a large bottle and where the Peanut Masala is spicy and moorish.
Before the French, this was a Portuguese colony, so we head off to the Puducherry Museum with high hopes. Dashed again. No photo’s allowed inside – perhaps so that no one can record the sad state of affairs that is this poor little place. There’s no story, no information, no route to follow and nothing, apparently of consequence, so poor is the curation.
All around, though, are glimpses of a once beautiful past. There are faded ochre buildings, there are balconies and high ceilings. There are fine houses, mansions and stunning churches.
I sense that Pondicherry is clinging to this heritage and her important tourist rupee by her fingertips.
Our retreat is done, we leave the peaceful tidiness of the Old Quarter and the French Quarter. We retrace our steps to the bus station, crossing the garbage strewn canal and away from our brief escape.
We’re taking the 47 INR public bus to Tiruvanamalai – one of the great Hindu spiritual centers in India.
Where to Stay in Pondicherry
- The Grand Hotel D’Europe is a beautiful property in the old colonial district. It has a pool, large rooms and a highly rated restaurant and you will not regret staying here. You can book the Grand Hotel with Booking.com.
- The Palais de Pondicherry is a 3 star hotel that is well located and gets great reviews for service. A breakfast is included and you can rent bicycles from here
- We stayed at the Lotus Bay View which is in a great location but some parts of the hotel could do with updating so you may wish to check your room before staying here.
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