How to Go from Chisinau to Old Orhei

If you’re spending a few days in Moldova, a trip to Old Orhei (Orheiul Vechi) is a must. At just over an hour (depending on traffic) from Chisinau, it’s one of the country’s most iconic sites: a dramatic limestone valley carved by the Raut River, topped with a monastery, dotted with caves, and positively oozing history. Getting here is surprisingly easy and doesn’t require much planning. In fact, you can do it independently for just a couple of euros or join an organised tour that bundles Old Orhei with other several other stops to maximise your time.  Here are the various ways that you can go from Moldova’s capital city, Chisinau to Old Orhei.  And why you should go.

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Old Orhei is a living historical and spiritual site. The Orthodox cave monastery here is still in use, and local villagers still graze animals along the valley slopes. Whether you want to save money and take the marshrutka from Chisinau, or let someone else handle the logistics and combine it with wine tasting and monasteries, you have options. In this guide, I’ll explain the different ways to travel from Chisinau to Old Orhei, what to expect on the journey, and how to pick what works best for you.

At a Glance: Chisinau to Old Orhei

• Distance: 55 kilometers (34 miles) northeast of Chisinau
• Travel Time: Around 1 to 1.5 hours each way
• Quickest Option: Private taxi or guided day trip (about 1 hour)
• Cheapest Option: Marshrutka from Central Bus Station (30 MDL / ~1.50 EUR)
• Easiest Option: Day trip including Old Orhei, Curchi Monastery, and Cricova Winery
• Time Needed at Site: 1 hour for main sights; allow extra for lunch in Butuceni
• Best For: Cultural history, cave monastery, dramatic landscapes
• Book Here: Old Orhei, Curchi Monastery & Cricova Winery Day Trip

Why go to Old Orhei?

Old Orhei is Moldova’s most famous archaeological and cultural site. It’s a mix of ancient ruins, dramatic natural scenery, and still-functioning monasteries.  It might not be on the UNESCO World Heritage list – yet – it’s on the tentative list, but that doesn’t make it any less worthy of your time.  My guide to Old Orhei and what to see is here.

Where is Old Orhei?

Old Orhei (Orheiul Vechi) is about 55 kilometers (34 miles) northeast of Chisinau. It’s located near the villages of Trebujeni and Butuceni, above a loop of the Raut River.

How long do you need to visit Old Orhei?

Depending on which sites you want to view, you can see the main sites in about an hour, but it’s worth staying for lunch in Butuceni village, where a local restaurant serves traditional and really rather good Moldovan dishes. You can see the menus available here.

If you’re looking for what you should order, then check out my guide to Moldovan food and drink here.

How to Go from Chisinau to Old Orhei

You’ve got three main ways to reach Old Orhei: by marshrutka (shared minibus), by private taxi or transfer, or on an organised day trip. Each has its own pros and cons depending on how much time and money you want to spend, as well as how much you want to learn about the complex.

This is an easy day trip to take from Chisinau – there are four more suggestions here.

Taking the Chisinau to Old Orhei Marshrutka

The marshrutka is the local and cheap way to reach Old Orhei. These minibuses leave from the Central Bus Station in Chisinau, right by the central market. (don’t miss exploring the central market, its fabulous) Look for ones going to Trebujeni or Butuceni, they have signs in their windshields indicating where they are going. They may also have “Oreheiul Vechi” (Old Orhei) on them.  Want to make it really easy? Write “Oreheiul Vechi” on a bit of paper, so you can show people, like the driver, or anyone else if you can’t find the right marshrutka.

You do NOT want the ones that go to the town of Orhei.

Butuceni: Departures at 10:20, 15:00, 18:15

Trebujeni: Departures at 08:35, 12:45, 13:45, 17:15

You can check the schedules for the buses here.

Ticket Cost: 40.5 MDL for  41.25 MDL.

You can also try and buy your tickets online here, it’s the official site of the Moldovan buses.

The journey takes about 1.5 hours, depending on traffic.  Pay the driver in cash if you didn’t manage to buy a ticket online, usually when you get off, but he’ll tell you when he wants paying. This type of sign language is universal.

If you get off in Trebujeni, you’ll need to walk about 20 minutes to reach Old Orhei.  Get off at the the junction where the sign says “Oreheiul Vechi Complex”.  If you’ve made yourself known to the driver, try and sit near the front, and remind him that you need to be off there.

If you find one to Butuceni, it drops you right next to the site, in the parking lot.  The walk from here to the church is about 15 minutes, uphill at first, then once you reach the plateau its flat.  There’s no shade here, so if you’re traveling in sunny weather bring a hat.

Chisinau to old Orhei Day Trip

The easiest option to go from Chisinau to Old Orhei is to book a day trip from Chisinau to Old Orhei.

It’s not just the easiest option, its to my mind, the best. There’s little to zero signage here, so unless you’ve come prepared with a detailed guide book you’re unlikely to understand what it is that you’re seeing.  That’s where a local guide is invaluable.

We opted for a private tour that also took us to Curchi Monastery (my guide is here) and wine tasting and touring at Cricova Winery as well. My guide to Cricova is here.

At Curchi, we explored churches including the stunning Virgin’s Assumption Cathedral, designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli. Then, we went onto Orheiul Vechi to explore the archaeological site and cave monastery. We had a fabulous lunch in Butuceni and then continued to Cricova’s underground wine galleries—53 hectares of tunnels named after grape varieties. You don’t even have to taste wine (but I mean, seriously?), you can just take the tour, but you can choose optional tastings of up to four wines.

If you’re short on time, then THIS is the perfect way to cram as much of Moldova into a short time as you can.  And to learn about what you’re seeing on the way.  Perfect.

Tips for Traveling from Chisinau to Old Orhei

Here’s a quick summary to help you decide the best way to get to Old Orhei from Chisinau.

The quickest way to get from Chisinau to Old Orhei:

A private taxi or an organised day trip—around one hour each way.

The easiest way to go to Old Orhei from Chisinau:

A guided day trip that also takes you to Cricova Winery and Curchi Monastery.

The cheapest way to go from Chisinau to Old Orhei:

The marshrutka from the central bus station—just 40 (ish) MDL each way.

The best way to go from Chisinau to Old Orhei:

It depends on your style. If you’re flexible on time, the marshrutka works fine. If you’re short on time, and want to understand what it is that you’re seeing, then pick a trip with a local guide.

Final Words on How to Go from Chisinau to Old Orhei

If you’re visiting Chisinau, then it seems rather churlish not to come to Old Orhei. Whether you sit shoulder-to-shoulder with locals in a marshrutka or head out in a private car, its worth the time investment.  It’s the most iconic day trip from the Moldovan capital, and combining it with Curchi Monastery or Cricova Winery gives you a both a better picture of this landlocked country in Europe.  My advice? If you’re keen on local travel and happy to go slow, take the marshrutka and make it a DIY trip. But if you’re pressed for time or want the context that comes with a guide, book a day tour and let someone else handle the logistics. Either way, visiting Old Orhei is one of the best experiences you can have in Moldova.

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