We’re on a mission to maximize our Japan Rail Pass, and so we’ve taken the Resort Shirakami train from Akita to Juniko Station. Tonight we’ll be staying at the Furofushi Onsen, and then continuing on the Resort Shirakami Train to Aomori. We’ve deliberately chosen this route so that we can hike Juniko 12 lakes. Located on the Akita and Aomori coastline, Juniko Lakes are part of the Tsugaru Quasi-National Park and are famed for the deep blue color of the water here. Here’s our guide to Juniko Lakes, hiking from Juniko train station, and what you can expect to see here.
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There are 33 bodies of water in the area known as Juniko 12 Lakes. But wait it gets more confusing. In Japanese Juniko means 12 lakes, so there’s no need really to say Juniko 12 Lakes. The name Juniko 12 Lakes comes from the fact that from the summit of Mount Okuzure, you can only see 12 lakes. Regardless of the naming irregularities, if you’re taking the Resort Shirakami train up this part of Japan’s west coast (and I do recommend it), then stopping off to explore Juniko is well worth the visit. Even in the offseason, which was when we visited.
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Stay at Furofushi Onsen and see Juniko 12 Lakes
Stay at the Furofushi Onsen to hike and visit Juniko 12 Lakes. Furofushi Onsen rates include free pick up and drop off from the train station and breakfast and dinner, plus an ocean side onsen too.
All about Juniko 12 Lakes
The area known as Juniko Lakes was formed, it’s thought, in 1704, during Japan’s Edo Period 1603-1867, when a major earthquake in the area blocked mountain streams. Earthquakes are particularly rare in this part of Japan, but this one caused the lakes and bodies of water to form here. The lakes are still fed by underground streams and the water is particularly clear and pure. It’s believed that the surrounding beech forest filters the water to deliver this purity and clarity.
The area of Juniko Lakes is today part of the Tsugaru Quasi-National Park and includes beech forests, the Shirakami-Sanchi UNESCO World Heritage site, Cape Tappi, and the volcanic Mount Iwaki.
The naming of Juniko 12 Lakes comes from the fact that from the summit of Mount Okuzure, you can see 12 bodies of water. The summit of Mount Ozukure is at 1,458 meters (4 783 feet) and there’s a trail that leads there.
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Why Come to Juniko 12 Lakes?
If you’re in this part of Japan, on the west coast en route to Aomori, then this is a great place for a stop-off. In the summer season it’s easier to get to the lakes from the station as there is a bus. Off-season, there are usually taxi drivers waiting here if you choose not to hike up to the lake area.
You can explore the lakes (on foot) in as little as 2.5 hours to see the highlights and then get on the next northbound train. So I guess the answer is why not?
How to get to Juniko Lakes
Juniko Lakes is just a 10 minute drive from Juniko Station. You can also walk from Juniko Station (we did and it wasn’t hard, it is also downhill on the way back to the station.). Juniko Station is on the JR East Gono Line and is a popular stop on the Resort Shirakami train service. My guide to the Resort Shirakami train is here and it is SUCH a fun train to ride.
It’s about 3 hours on the express train from Aomori to Juniko Station, some of the slower trains can take up to 6 hours. During the summer season, there are buses from Juniko station to the Juniko Lakes area.
You can also easily drive to Juniko Lakes – my guide to renting a car in Japan is here.
Juniko Station to Juniko Lakes Bus
The bus runs from around April 20th to 30th November each year. This bus also continues to Furofushi Onsen and stops at several other parking lots and stations too. You can download the bus timetable here.
Outside the season you will usually find a local taxi service waiting at the station to take you either up to the Juniko lakes area or take you on a tour. Off-season the drivers did not speak English, but they have a fabulous translation board, which is the perfect way to explain what you want, and what they can deliver.
Walking from Juniko Station to Juniko Lakes
We’ve spent a lot of time sitting on trains recently and decided to walk from the station up to the lake area. Our train arrived at Juniko Station at 10:25 and we put our main bags into the lockers here in the station. There are various sizes of lockers here and the price ranges from 300 JPY to 500 JPY. Cash only.
For most of the route, you’re walking along the side of the road from the station up to the lakes area. There is a sidewalk in some places, but the road is very, very quiet and any vehicles we met were very considerate.
It takes around 30 minutes to hike to the first lake. And we had arrived at the Oike bus stop by 11:20. We hiked to Aoike Pond, Wakitsubo Pond, and were back in time to buy an ice cream from the Juniko Station shop and get on the 13:05 train from Juniko to Furofushi Onsen where we were staying for the night. My review of the Furofushi Onsen Hotel and what to expect is here.
Driving to Juniko 12 Lakes
If you’re driving it’s an hour from Hirosaki City. There is parking available at Kyororo (a souvenir shop and information center), and it costs 500 JPY to park there. Read my guide to renting a car in Japan here.
What to see at Juniko Lakes
You can of course hike to all 33 of the bodies of water. You can hike to the summit of Mount Okuzure and that’s a 5.8 kilometer (3.6 miles) out-and-back trail that is considered “challenging”. Or you can simply see the highlights. There are several highlights to see here at Juniko. Aoike Pond and Wakitsubo Pond are the top places to visit. Details of the other ponds, lakes, and trail guides if you plan to spend longer can be found here.
Juniko Visitor Center
The Juniko Visitor Center is actually at the train station, so it’s here that you’ll want to stop off and see if there are any leaflets or information you want before you start hiking. The visitor center is only open from the beginning of April until the end of November. They sell fabulous ice cream here too. It’s known as Aoike Icecream and is colored blue in homage to the blue of Aoike Pond. And this is where the luggage lockers are.
Nihon Canyon
This scenic part of Juniko 12 Lakes is named after the Grand Canyon, but don’t go getting your hopes up quite that far. Nihon Canyon is a volcanic tuff rock cliff that’s been exposed by erosion.
Kyororo – Forest Shop
This is a snack stop, and store and it has parking. It’s only open from the end of April until the end of November. They also sell local produce here in season. It’s located at the Oku-Juniko Bus stop and is just 10 minutes from the Aoike Pond. You’ll often see “just 10 minutes from Kyororo” in terms of directions and time to hike, well this is what they’re talking about.
Aoike Pond aka Blue Pond
This 9 meter (29 feet) deep pond is the highlight of the 12 lakes area and has water so clear that you can see fallen beech trees at the bottom of the pond. With any luck, you’ll have a clear sunny day to see the cobalt blue color of the water as the sunlight hits it. There’s a pedestrian boardwalk and wooden steps as you get close to it so that you can see it from both the bottom and from above.
The water in the pond remains at a static 9 Celsius (48 Fahrenheit) year round and never freezes, despite the Aomori climate.
Wakitsubo Pond
Just 15 minutes away from Aoike, this pond is another key spot to visit. Water from this pond is potable. You can drink directly from the pond, or take a green tea made from it, from the Juniko-an tea house near the trailhead.
How to Hike Juniko Lakes from Juniko Train Station
Leave your big bags in the lockers at the train station. You need yen coins to use these lockers. And to hike up to the lake area, you’ll want to leave the station. With the station to your back turn right and walk along the side of the road. There’s a sidewalk for part of it.
Walk around 150 meters (500 feet) and then take the major road that leads up and away from the train line. It’s enumerated the 280 on Google Maps. This will lead you up to the lake area. The first attraction you’ll come across on this route is Nihon Canyon on your right. The next is the Hakkei Pond (八景の池) which is on the left.
Continue and you’ll come to a T junction. The pond immediately in front of you is the interestingly named Second Pond (二ツ目の池). Turn right and follow the road.
You’ll come across several lakes on the left-hand side of the road and then the Juniko visitor center. After a few more minutes of walking there’s a trail off to the right towards Wakitsubo Pond, follow that up, and then you’ll join the loop that will also take you to Aoike Pond.
You can either continue past Aoike Pond and walk down the alternative road, or return the way that you came up from the station. (we took the shorter route down, the same one that we came up, to ensure that we caught our train).
If you’re looking for an alternative way to get to this part of Japan, then check out my guide to using Private Drivers in Japan here.
Where to Stay to Hike Juniko Lakes
While you are in this area, there are several places that you could stay in the area, but the Furofushi Onsen is the place to stay. This onsen ryokan is right on the coast, has an outdoor onsen – RIGHT on the Sea of Japan, and is just about 12 kilometers further on from Juniko. The spectacular onsen Ryokan provides a free shuttle service from the Wespa Tsubakiyama Station in the off-season. We stayed here one night before continuing onto Aomori and then Sapporo. Their rates include breakfast and dinner and access to the multiple onsens. Get an ocean-view room if you can, it’s glorious.
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Final Words on Visiting Juniko Lakes
This is a great place to visit en route to Aomori. Even if you’re not taking the Resort Shirakami train, then this is a special place to come and a lovely, quiet place to hike in Japan. The train makes it easy to spend a short amount of time here and then continue. Do try and stay at the Furofushi Onsen, at the next train stop north, it makes for a lovely and special stay.
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