What to Eat and Drink in Moldova + top places to find good food

Moldova might not be the first country that comes to mind when you think about food travel, but you’ll soon realise that food is a major reason to come here. Meals are hearty, and there’s a lot of comfort food here.  Ingredients tend to be seasonal and come straight from the farm, and portions are generous. Moldovan wine has a reputation that stretches back centuries, and it pairs perfectly with the rustic, comforting plates you’ll find here. The cuisine itself reflects Moldova’s crossroads location, combining Romanian, Russian, and Turkish influences into something uniquely Moldovan. If you’ve ever wondered what to eat in Moldova, the answer is plenty: local Moldovan dishes, traditional wines, and sweet treats that don’t break the budget. Here’s what to eat in Moldova, details on drinks, and the best places to eat and drink.

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Moldova’s food is fabulously seasonal. What arrives on your plate often depends on what’s growing in local gardens or being sold at the markets that week. (and you MUST visit the central market in Chisinau, it’s a delight).  Traditional Moldovan dishes highlight the connection to the land, whether it’s pickled vegetables in winter or fresh salads and herbs in summer. And then, of course, there’s the wine. Moldova’s wine culture is centuries old, and exploring it through tastings, vineyard tours, or a very decent (and reasonably priced) bottle with dinner is essential to the experience.

Traditional Moldovan Dishes You Must Try

Food in Moldova is deeply tied to family, history, the land, and Moldovan’s location at the crossroads of a host of different cultures.  Traditional Moldovan dishes are hearty, full of flavor, and eating them family style is just the right way to enjoy this food. If you’ve traveled much in Eastern Europe, in the Balkans, or even on the Silk Road, you’ll feel it’s all a little familiar, but different at the same time.

Mămăligă

Mămăligă is Moldova’s version of cornmeal polenta.  It’s cooked until it’s thick, and you can usually slice through it with a fork.  Served hot with sour cream, salty brânză cheese, or meat stews.  There’s usually a bit of garlic sauce, aka mujdei.  It might have been a peasant dish years back, but today, it’s serious comfort food.  You’ll see similarities to polenta in Italy or mamaliga in Romania; it’s eaten year-round.

Placinte

Plăcinte are flaky pastries filled with cheese, potato, cabbage, or sometimes pumpkin.  I mean, you can put anything in them.  Some are savory (my favourite) and some are sweet.  There’s even a restaurant chain named after these amazingly Moorish dishes.  They might once have been a snack, but now they’re a must-try street food and restaurant staple.  Balkan travelers will find them similar to Balkan burek, and they’re fabulous with sour cream.

Zeamă

Zeamă is Moldova’s beloved chicken soup, simmered with homemade noodles, fresh herbs, the main one being lovage,  and a hint of sourness from lemon. Traditionally served as comfort food, and usually at the beginning of a meal. You’ll find this pretty much everywhere. Eat it hot with cream (there’s a theme here) and chili peppers.  You might find similarities to Romanian ciorbă.

Sarmale

Sarmale are cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with a mix of rice, meat, and herbs, served hot – so yes, you’ll likely know them from Turkey or Greece, but these are hot, not cold.  And you MUST try both versions, the cabbage leaf and the vine leave, and see which you prefer. 

I’m in the cabbage camp.  But that doesn’t mean I’ll turn down the vine leaf option, though!  They’ll be served with sour cream and pickles.

Mititei/Mici

Mititei, or mici, are grilled minced meat sausages spiced with garlic and herbs.  They came to Moldova through Romanian influence; they’re a summer favorite and a staple at picnics or street stalls.   You will get them year-round, though.  They’re traditionally served with mustard and bread.

Salted Herring and Boiled Potatoes

“Hering sărat cu cartofi” is a simple yet classic Moldovan dish of salted herring served with boiled potatoes and onions. It reflects the country’s Eastern European ties, with similar versions found in Russia and Ukraine. Traditionally enjoyed as an appetizer, it’s fabulous with rye bread and sometimes comes with a shot of vodka!

Coltunasi or Vareniks

Colțunași, also known as vareniks, are boiled dumplings with either savory or sweet fillings. In Moldova, you’ll find them stuffed with cheese, potatoes, or sour cherries.

Similar to pierogi in Poland, pelmeni in other countries they’re amazingly Moorish comfort food and come served with sour cream.

Ardei Umpluți – Stuffed Bell Peppers

Ardei umpluți, or chiperi umpluți, are bell peppers stuffed with rice, vegetables, and sometimes minced meat. In Moldova, they’re often served with sour cream.

Frigărui– Grilled Kebabs aka Shashlik

I don’t think you can travel in this region at all without bumping into Shashlik.  Frigărui, Moldova’s take on shashlik, are skewered chunks of marinated pork or lamb grilled over open coals. It came from Central Asian and Caucasian influences but is firmly on Moldovan menus now.

Cighiri

Cighiri are Moldovan meatballs made from minced pork, liver, and onions.  Think of them as a big meatball that is mixed with lots of salt and pepper, bay leaves, garlic, eggs, and onion. Then they’re wrapped in a skin and fried.  They traditionally came from the autumn pig slaughter, and the idea was to use all parts of the animal.

Pirjoale

Pirjoale are Moldovan-style meat patties made from minced pork or beef mixed with bread, onions, and herbs.  Think of them as a Moldovan burger.  They’re pan-fried until crisp, but still tender on the inside.  Melt-in-the-mouth tender.  They’re similar to kotleti in Russia or frikadellen in Germany.

Roast Beans in Tomato Sauce

Every country in this region has a version of this.  Home-made baked beans.  Amazingly filling and fabulous to have some fresh bread to mop up the sauce (Georgia does some fabulous baked beans).  In Moldova, they’re slow-cooked until creamy and rich and are flavored with onions, garlic, and dill.

Baked Eggplant Salad

I hated eggplant, aka aubergine, for years.  Now it’s a go-to for me.  It’s known locally as salată de vinete, and is a smoky spread made from roasted eggplants mixed with onions and oil.  You’ll want chunks of fresh bread with this.

Pickled Vegetables and Fruits

Pickling is central to Moldovan food culture, ensuring flavor through the long winters. You can see evidence of this if you visit the Eco Resort at Butuceni. 

Cucumbers, tomatoes, and sauerkraut are staples, but Moldovans also pickle apples and even watermelon. They’re then served alongside Cighiri and pretty much anything.

Borscht Soup

Borscht in Moldova is a beet-based soup that combines sweet flavors with a tangy sourness from fermented bran or lemon juice.   It’s common across Eastern Europe.  Eat it hot with sour cream. 

If you’re traveling to Transnistria (my guide is here), then you’ll get a shot of vodka with it in the Back to the USSR restaurant.

Madonna Honey Cake aka Tort Smetanik

I generally don’t “do” dessert, I’m more of a savory, sour taste type person, but you can’t come to a country and NOT try one of the key dishes!  Madonna honey cake is a layered Moldovan dessert made with thin honey-infused sponge and cream filling, creating a rich yet delicate sweetness.

It was inspired by Russian medovik, and you’ll find different versions of it in all the ex-Soviet states.  One piece was enough between the two of us as we had other desserts to try…

Cușma lui Guguță – Crepe Cake Gugutsa’s Hat

We tried this because the photo looked amazing in the La Placinte menu.  (yeah, we like food menus with photos).  Cușma lui Guguță, or “Gugutsa’s Hat,” is made from layers of thin crepes filled with sour cherries.

The crepes are then rolled up and they’re made into a pyramid and then covered with sour cream (ha, you already guessed that was involved, didn’t you?) and chocolate. Fabulous.  I loved it.  The sourness of the cherries has a lot to do with it.

Coltunasi with Sour Cherry

I mentioned Colțunași earlier.  This is the sweet version.  Well, I mean, sweet with sour cherries.  And it works really well.  The tart fruit balances the soft dough; they’re supposedly similar to vareniki in Ukraine (I haven’t been or tried them), and yes, they’re served with sugar or sour cream.

Baba Neagra

Baba Neagră, or “black grandmother,” is a traditional Moldovan cake slowly baked for hours until it turns a rich, dark brown. Made with eggs, sugar, milk, and flour, it’s a kind of dense sponge cake, and it’s perfect with fruit compote. We had this at the Eco Resort Butuceni, near Orhei.

What to Drink in Moldova

When it comes to drinks, you’ve got to start with wine — Moldova’s most famous export and the pride of the country. With one of the oldest winemaking traditions in Europe, it’s amazing that I’d never had Moldovan wine before.  And it is WOW.  Fabulous.

Moldovan Wines

Moldova is one of the world’s largest wine producers per capita, with vineyards covering the countryside.  Ignore the international varieties while you’re here and focus only on indigenous grapes like Rara Neagră, Fetească Albă, and Fetească Neagră.   Oh, sure, the tasting session at the famous wine cellars at Cricova and Milestii Mici will push the international varieties, but please do NOT miss the indigenous grapes, you won’t regret it. 

You’ll find millions of bottles of wine underground at Cricova and Milestii Mici. Read my guide to visiting Cricova here. Purcari is another famous name, legendary for its red wines that once graced European royal tables.  Even if you’re traveling hand luggage only, you’ll be delighted to hear that there is a rather large duty-free section at the airport that includes LOTS and LOTS of the indigenous grapes.  And no, they’re not stupidly expensive.

Beer in Moldova

Beer has a strong presence in Moldova, with national brands like Chișinău Beer found everywhere from supermarkets to corner bars. Craft brewing has taken off here, like everywhere else, and you have some great options here in Chisinau. 

The top option is Litra Brewing, which has a modern tap room that wouldn’t be out of place in London. It’s a great place to go to try a host of different beers.

Spirits and Other Drinks

Beyond wine and beer, Moldova has a strong tradition of spirits. Divin, the local brandy, is smooth, pretty cheap, and often compared to cognac. For something stronger, try Țuică or Rachiu, homemade fruit brandies (we know Rachiu as Rakia in Bulgaria).

Traditional kvass, made from fermented bread, is a refreshing everyday drink.

For non-alcoholic options, compote is a great way to combine dessert and a refreshing drink. It’s a sweet beverage made by boiling seasonal fruits.

Where to Eat Traditional Moldovan Dishes in Chisinau

There’s a good selection of places to eat traditional food in Chisinau; here are the best ones to head to.

Eli-Pili

Eli-Pili is a great option for visitors.  It’s got a menu full of Moldovan and international dishes. We went there to try a host of local beers, beer snacks, and traditional food.  Cards are accepted here, so you don’t need to run the gauntlet of ATM fees.  You can check the menu here.

• Address of Eli-Pili: Strada București 68, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Eli-Pili: 10:00–23:00 daily

La Plăcinte

La Plăcinte is a well-known Moldovan chain.  It was recommended to us by our guide, and we were able to go through most of our list of foods to try here, without breaking the bank.  We didn’t spot any other Western tourists here, just a lot of Moldovan families and business visitors too.  Menus are available in English, and you can easily pay by card.  You can also plan your visit!

• Address of La Plăcinte: Strada Pușkin 33, Chișinău, Moldova; & Mitropolit Dosoftei St 100, MD-2012, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of La Plăcinte: 09:00–22:00 daily

Taifas

We planned to go here, as it’s a traditional Moldovan restaurant in a rustic building, designed to feel like a countryside inn. Although when we got there, we didn’t feel it was right for us, it felt particularly touristy.  It’s popular, check the reviews here, and you’ll get all the classics here, like mămăligă with brânză and sarmale.  There’s sometimes live folk music in the evenings. Menus are available in English, and card payments are accepted.

• Address of Taifas: Strada București 67, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Taifas: 12:00–23:00 daily

Eco Resort Butuceni

If you’re visiting Old Orhei (and you should), for a rustic, fabulous menu at great prices.  Don’t miss the placinte here.  It’s a great place to eat traditional foods in a village.  And yes, you can pay by card here.  My guide to Orhei shows some of their menu items and prices.

• Address of Eco Resort Butuceni: Butuceni Village, Orhei District, Moldova
• Opening hours of Eco Resort Butuceni: 10:00–22:00 daily

Wine Tasting in Chisinau

Chișinău is an excellent base for exploring Moldova’s wine; you can find places to taste by the glass or join tours to visit the amazing underground cellars.  Cricova, Milestii Mici, and Castel Mimi are the most famous wineries to visit, but there are plenty of places here in the capital to try too.

Cricova – Wine Shop

Cricova’s wine shop in Chișinău brings a taste of the legendary underground cellars to the city. You’ll find a wide range of bottles, including local specialties and sparkling wines, but purchases are mostly by the bottle rather than by the glass. If you’re wanting to take a tour of the underground cellars and aren’t booking it through a tour, then you should stop by here and make a reservation.  As I explain in my guide to Cricova and wine tasting here, xxxx you could be disappointed if you just rock up without a reservation on a tour.

• Address of Cricova – Wine Shop: Strada Alexei Şciusev 96, MD-2012, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Cricova – Wine Shop: 10:00–19:00 daily

Invino Enoteca

Invino Enoteca is one of Chișinău’s top wine bars, with an extensive list that showcases Moldova’s best producers. You can order wine by the glass or the bottle.  We visited when they had a sale on, and several of the US Embassy staff were emptying the shelves and stocking their own cellars!  They were amazing deals, I have to say.  We made do with tasting wine by the glass!

• Address of Invino Enoteca: Strada Mitropolit Gavriil Bănulescu-Bodoni 41, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Invino Enoteca: 11:00–23:00 daily

Carpe Diem Wine Bar

Carpe Diem is a modern wine bar known for its curated selections from Moldova’s boutique wineries.  You can pair your wine with small plates, and they often offer group tastings.  They were booked out for a group tasting during our visit to Chisinau.

• Address of Carpe Diem Wine Bar: Strada Columna 136, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Carpe Diem Wine Bar: 11:00–22:00 daily, closed Mondays

Plincuvin Wine Shop

Plincuvin is a boutique wine shop in Chișinău specializing in small producers and rare Moldovan vintages. While the focus is on bottles rather than glasses, you can take wine by the glass as well.  We liked it.

• Address of Plincuvin Wine Shop: Strada Alexandru cel Bun 83, Chișinău, Moldova
• Opening hours of Plincuvin Wine Shop: 10:00–20:00 daily

Practical Tips for Eating and Drinking in Moldova

Ordering food in Moldova is straightforward, especially in Chișinău, where many menus have English translations, but learning a few words like mulțumesc (thank you) will definitely get you a smile.  Portions tend on the larger side, and its not expensive, so load up all those dishes you want to try. However, wine tastings and cellar tours are priced more similarly to Western Europe, so just be aware. If you’re looking to buy bottles, restaurants and airport duty-free free are well priced.

Final Words on What to Eat and Drink in Moldova

When I start to put together my list of what to eat when we’re planning a trip, it either makes my mouth water, or makes me wonder why we’re going.  Moldova made my mouth water.  Writing this made my mouth water and wonder why we’re not planning a return visit (too many other places to visit right now).  The food is a fabulous mix of different cultures, its tasty, its not expensive.  The wine is fabulous, the people friendly and it didn’t break the bank. What’s not to love?

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