The express train from Thazi set off on time, in 19:50. It’s come down from Mandalay. We’re in Upper Class again, our tickets this time costing 1800 kyat, this journey should only last 3 hours, and it does. It’s dark. There’s nothing to see, fewer bugs than we found on the train we took to Hsipaw, over the Gokteik viaduct. And we’re on our way to Naypyidaw, Myanmar’s capital city since 2005 and we’ve got a day in Naypyidaw planned. This is our Naypyidaw itinerary.
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We arrive at Naypyidaw Raiway station, which is HUGE. It’s like an airport. Massive. Acres of tiled floors. Column supported ceilings and no one here. Naypyidaw Railway Station is not only vast and new and clean, there’s also a free mobile phone charging area AND free wi-fi, (which works better than the wi-fi we’ve had in some guest houses here!)
The station was empty apart from a taxi driver who attaches himself to us as soon as we get off the train. He wants 6,000 kyat to drive us to the hotel we have a booking at, the San Chain. It should take us 10 minutes to drive there, considering we’ve just paid 1,800 kyat for a three hour train it does seem a little ridiculous, but its past 23:00, its dark and we have no desire to walk the 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) to the hotel. We agree on a fare of 5,000 kyat.
Naypyidaw – Myanmar’s Capital City since 2005
Naypyidaw has been the capital of Myanmar since 2005, when the ruling General Than Shwe had it built in secret in a move away from Yangon. Naypyidaw is situated roughly half way between the old capital and Mandalay, 200 miles from Yangon. Naypyidaw means “abode of kings”.
The rumour is that the General’s personal astrologer warned him of a potential invasion by sea, so he moved the capital. Government employees were given two days to move from Yangon, but had to leave their families behind. The vast majority of foreign embassies remain in Yangon, with only Bangladesh having moved to the International Zone in the new city.
The city of Napyidaw is huge. It’s split into zones. And all the zones are miles from each other, there’s no public transport. The hotels are in zones 1 and 2. There’s a specific road on which the museums are built (but details as to their opening times are tough to find).
Our Naypyidaw Itinerary for One Day
Our only option to see Naypyidaw in the day that we’ve got here, is to get a taxi – and so we part with 40,000 kyat (US$31) for a half day tour of the city – with most of it simply being a drive by.
The roads are immaculate. The grass, the gardens, and the foliage is perfect. There are literally tens of people tending it all.
The roundabouts – because, yes, there are roundabouts, that appear to be used in the correct, British fashion, rather than the usual Asian “free for all” fashion – are gorgeous.
The Museums of Napyidaw
There’s a row of museums, including what looks like a new National Museum and on the same row is the Bank of Myanmar. Nothing looks particularly open. But it’s all immaculate.
See Napyidaw’s Empty Roads
We can’t get close to the Parliament building, but we can drive down the TEN LANE HIGHWAY that leads to it.
Actually we can stop the car in the middle of the road.
And get out and take a photo in the middle of the road. In the middle of a ten lane highway.
Because there is no traffic. None. Zero. Zip. Look even turning round. There’s nothing!
It’s kind of cool. Now this is why I came. Just to see what it’s like. So much better than just reading about it. It seems also devoid of people.
Visit Napyidaw’s Market Area
So where are the people then? Seems that they’re all at the market area. Along with the sewing machines.
This is not only the market area, but it’s the sewing centre of Naypyidaw. There are rows upon row of old Singer sewing machines (there are other brands as well). It appears that there is a lot of sewing to be done in this capital city and it’s all done here.
It’s close to here that the buses to Yangon go from too, which is definitely the easiest way to go from Napyidaw to Yangon.
The real attraction, though, is the market. It’s not big, it’s not flashy,
it’s just a great market. Lots of superbly fresh fruit, vegetables. Even the dried goods area looks great. This puts a lot of other Asian markets to shame. And all around us, people are just getting on with their lives, there’s a little curiosity, but not much, which feels nice.
Visit the Uppatasani Pagoda in Naypyidaw
Our next location is the Uppatasani Pagoda. Built by the then ruling General Than Shwe and his wife, this is a copy of the Shwedagon in Yangon, although it’s 30 centimeters shorter than the original.
There’s no fee to get in, but there are rules. no shoes, no shorts, no shoulders showing.
Our shoes go to the shoe safe, it’s not good enough that my legs are covered up, I also have to wear a longhi over the top and it’s a brave woman who wraps it round my very sweaty waist. There are stairs up, but we’re directed to the lift, although the lack of air conditioning probably makes us just as sweaty as if we’d taken the steps.
The pagoda is shiny. It’s empty.
It’s 99 meters tall. Although it does house a Buddha tooth relic from China. There are perhaps 20 people here.
It’s on a huge platform.
Inside it’s just as empty. And vast. That’s different to the Shwedagon in Yangon, which isn’t hollow.
And what’s great about being up here is that there are fabulous views of the city.
Or the countryside. It’s hard to tell that this is a city.
Visit the White Elephants of Naypyidaw
We’re also here to see the elephants. These are the auspicious white elephants of Naypyidaw, in this some say, white elephant of a capital city, here in a VERY SMALL compound.
The elephants are here because the Burmese people believe that they bring peace, stability and prosperity.
If you’re looking for more ethical places to see elephants, then I highly recommend the Mondulkiri Elephant Sanctuary in Cambodia. It is glorious. We took a hike there and you can read about it here.
And that wrapped up our visit to Napyidaw, which you know, the highlight of, I have to admit was the 10 lane highway with no traffic on it. We’re off to Yangon next.
Travel Tips for Exploring Myanmar
- Get Travel Insurance: Civitatis includes medical expenses, repatriation, theft, luggage delays. No deductibles or upfront payments. Get a quote here.
- Download and install a VPN BEFORE you travel to Myanmar > discount coupon here
- Book Ferries, and Buses in Myanmar with 12goAsia
- Book accommodation in Myanmar with Agoda or Booking
Final Words on visiting Napyidaw in One Day
Napyidaw definitely isn’t on many travelers lists. There’s not a lot here, its hard to get around and its not really the western tourists idea of a place to visit with things to see. And one day will be enough to visit. It’s really interesting to see someone’s version of what a capital city should be like. It’s not mine, but it was an interesting visit all the same!
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One thought on “How to Spend a Day In Myanmar’s NEW capital city – Naypyidaw”
thanks for the info, it was very interesting