Today we walked across the Vietnam-China border. Literally. From Lao Cai to Hekou. Actually, we traveled from Sapa to Hekou, China, crossing the border at Lao Cai Vietnam to Hekou, China.
This is an easy crossing between Northern Vietnam and the southwestern China province of Yunnan at the junction of the Red River and the Nanxi River. There’s just not a lot written about it. This guide aims to advise on how to get from Sapa to Lao Cai, and then from Lao Cai to Hekou Yunnan. We’ll cover border opening times, visa requirements, what you can expect in Hekou China, and details on onward travel from Hekou.
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Popular options for moving on from Hekou are taking the train from Hekou to Kunming, or a bus to the Yuanyang Rice Fields.
However, the first thing that you’re going to want to do is read this guide thoroughly – ask any questions you might have and plan out your onward travel from Hekou. This is especially the case if you do not have a VPN. China is currently blocking access to all HTTPS websites ( so that means this site as well as all the sites where you’d book your accommodation, trains, and other onward travel ) Read more about VPNs and other things you should do BEFORE you get to China in our article.
How to Get from Sapa to Lao Cai
Most travelers will spend some time in Sapa, the old French hill station set up in 1922, before crossing the border. However, the border crossing takes place in the Vietnamese town of Lao Cai into the Chinese town of Hekou. The Lao Cai border crossing is about 2 kilometers from the Lao Cai train station. However, we have also included the instructions on how to get from Sapa to China.
We left from Sapa at 09:30
We stayed in the top part of the town for our last night in Vietnam, at the Sapa Cozy – check out the prices and availability of places to stay in Sapa. It’s close to the Church, which is where the buses leave for Lao Cai.
Where to Get the Sapa to Lao Cai Bus
The bus from Sapa to Lao Cai leaves near the church in Sapa. I’ve marked it on the map for your reference.
The Tourist Bus from Sapa to Lao Cai
We headed to the Church at 09:15 to catch the 09:30 tourist bus to Lao Cai – 28k VND.
From the Lao Cai train station (Ga Lao Cai) we planned to catch a Xe Om (motorbike taxi) each for 20k VND (US $1) to the China Vietnam border. Alternatively, we could walk the remaining 2km in about 40 minutes. You can also take the Lao Cai to Sapa bus in the opposite direction. You’ll find it going from the Lao Cai train station to Sapa (there are also many minivan shuttles that will cost about the same).
Sapa to Lao Cai Minivan
A minibus driver approached us and agreed to take us to Lao Cai for 30k. We further negotiated to get to the border for another 10k VND each. As the minibus was empty when we did this deal we expected to be sitting around for the next hour while he drummed up trade. We were pleasantly surprised when we set off 10 minutes later as he had promised, even though we weren’t full.
He operates by setting off a few minutes ahead of the bus – so en route to Lao Cai, we picked up several more folks, who were also waiting for the bus.
We were dropped off just before the border, with a Vietnamese wave in the general direction of “China, China”. You can see on the map where we were dropped off in Lao Cai.
How far is Sapa from the Chinese Border?
The distance between Sapa and the Chinese border at Hekou isn’t really the question, you need to know how long will it take from Sapa to the China border? The answer depends – but it will usually take you around an hour (60 minutes) to get from Sapa to Lao Cai to the Chinese border.
Hekou Border Crossing Map
The Vietnam-China border map on Google Maps IS confusing. This is mainly because both Google’s border line is in the wrong place on the map AND the rivers look as though they run into the streets. It looks like, for instance, that Binhe Lu in Hekou is in the river. It’s not.
Because Google Maps isn’t exactly accurate here – I’ve drawn the details of the locations of the China Vietnam border crossing on the map later in this article. The Lao Cai to China crossing is quick and easy. The map below shows you all of the major points you need for the border crossing.
Lao Cai to Hekou Border Crossing
Vietnam & China Border opening times
China is one hour ahead of Vietnam. Vietnamese immigration is open at 0700 (that’s 0800 Chinese time). Then you need to walk across a bridge to Chinese immigration. Chinese immigration is open from 8 am until 11 pm (Chinese time). That’s 7 am until 10 pm Vietnamese time, because of the time zone differences.
Vietnamese Immigration at Lao Cai
The entrance to Vietnamese immigration is through the exit, because, you are exiting Vietnam. It’s a simple process, you stand in a line and get your passport stamped.
Vietnamese Immigration at Lao Cai, Vietnam – what to expect
There were four folks in front of us, all looked like regular visitors, and we were the only Western tourist. We were through in less than 5 minutes. That included standing by the sensor that checks your body temperature! We were normal apparently and passed through without problems. Most of the folks crossing here at the Lao Cai China border are locals, not tourists.
Chinese Immigration at Hekou Yunnan, China – what to expect
Then, it was a short walk across the Friendship Bridge over the river and we were heading into the Hekou – Chinese immigration building.
There was NO ONE here. Apart from the immigration staff.
First of all, we had a stop at the quarantine section and a passport check. Then it’s onto a small station where your passport is scanned by a helpful guy. He also inputs the requested visa number into the machine, which then prints your entry and exit cards. There is no visa on arrival here, you must obtain your Chinese visa prior to the trip. This is just one of the things that you must do before you arrive in China -there are others! And there are recommendations for apps that you should download before you go too – read about that here.
Our helpful guy didn’t speak any English, but sign language is universal and, face it, if a man in uniform points and pushes, you just go.
You sign the cards and then head to the Immigration notice and booth. This is all within 8 meters of each other. There was now no one in the line, so we went quickly through there. Then you put your bags through the airport security-style scanner and you’re out.
Time to Cross Vietnam – China Border
Vietnam to China in 16 minutes. Pretty darned good. This was late morning by the time we arrived at the border (11:44 on a Saturday). We had no bus to catch on the other side that day, our bus goes at 06:00 or 09:00 tomorrow. So we plan to stay in Hekou for the night.
Hekou, Yunnan
There are multiple locations in China named Hekou. You are traveling to Hekou, Yunnan.
Facilities in Hekou
There’s not a lot to see. It’s a typical border town, but you’ll find places to stay and eat (More on Hekou Food here), even if you don’t speak or read any Chinese.
Hekou Hotels
There are lots of hotels in Hekou within easy reach of the immigration building. Be sure of your accommodation in Hekou and book ahead. The Chinese site Trip is great for booking accommodation in China and has more choices than other sites.
Hekou Accommodation Recommendations
Sun Hotel – Shared terrace and lounge, free wifi. English is spoken here. Dorm beds and private rooms are available. Get the best prices and a reservation here.
1982 Hostel – Easy location, within walking distance of the border. 24-hour desk, restaurant Big rooms and very clean. Reserve your room now at a great price.
Asia Theme Hotel – Free in-room wifi, 24-hour front desk, and an entire NON SMOKING FLOOR! Secure your room now
Map of Crossing the Border from Vietnam to China at Lao Cai Hekou
You can also see the full map for crossing the Lau Cai to Hekou border here
Getting Chinese currency in Hekou
ATMs in Hekou
If you don’t have Chinese Yuan (often marked as RMB or CNY), then there are several ATMs that a foreign cardholders can use. Not all Chinese ATMs will accept foreign cards. We found the Bank of China easy to use throughout our 60 days in China.
The ATM does actually speak to you in English.
You can find a Bank of China ATM that’s available 24 hours and that works with foreign cards at the corner of BINHE LU – see the notation on the map.
How to Leave Hekou
If you want to leave Hekou straight away, then then you will want to get to either the Hekou Passenger Transportation Centre (for buses) there are details on this below – or the Hekou North Train Station (which opened in December 2014).
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Book Trains in China with Trip.com
Want a train in China? You’ll need to book ahead of time, this is a big country with a lot of people who travel by train. Get your dates sorted and book early!
Hekou to Kunming Buses
It is possible to get from Lao Cai to Kunming (or Sapa to Kunming) in one day, as there are lots of buses throughout the day. They go from the Hekou Passenger Transportation Centre – or bus station. Take the little green bus to get there (see details below). You will need, though to get to the border early in the day.
Hekou to Xinjie for Yuanyang
Read more about getting to the Yuanyang Rice Fields here
Where to Get Buses in Hekou
Long-distance buses in Hekou leave from the Bus Passenger Transportation Centre. The building is about 2.5 miles (4km) from the border. The Hekou Bus Passenger Transport Centre is also where you buy a ticket. We bought our tickets the day before we traveled, to be sure of having a ticket to our next destination.
I’ve included on the Map where the Hekou Passenger Transportation Center is
How to get to the Hekou Bus Passenger Transportation Centre
Hekou’s bus station is easily accessible by the “little green bus”. The little green bus runs from 06:30 – 22:00 right along the river road, BINHE LU. Each trip costs 2 yuan. The trip takes about 15 minutes. Simply put your money in the box as you enter the bus.
There aren’t many seats, but there is plenty of space for standing.
Getting to Hekou Train Station
The Hekou train station is about 4.5 km from the immigration building. It’s known as Hekoubei (in Chinese it is 河口北火车站 ). It is sometimes also known as Hekou North Railway Station. You will want to get a taxi. Write the Chinese characters down, and show it to a taxi driver. Agree on a price before you get in the taxi.
You should try and book your trains before you arrive in China – you can do this online with Trip.com – And be sure to do it in plenty of time, as trains book up quickly. Take a look and find availability for your trip NOW.
A taxi from the border area to Hekou train station should cost 10-20 Yuan for four people with luggage – it’s a fixed price and drivers will refuse to turn on the meter.
What & Where to Eat in Hekou, China
Hekou is a typical border town. There is a good selection of hotels of varying sizes and prices and several that you can book ahead of time. There’s also a reasonable number of places to eat, but you’re going local when eating in Hekou. You left all the Westernized joints behind when you crossed the border from Vietnam. That said, there is a Dico’s, which promised chicken burgers and fries, and a frozen yogurt place. Here’s where to eat in Hekou, what to eat in Hekou, and how to find it.
There are lots of small plastic chair places to eat near the market. If you walk straight on from the immigration offices, you’ll find it off to the right. There’s also a street of small plastic chair restaurants nearby with a specialty of insects and bugs. The staff were most keen to tempt us to eat something. Nothing doing. There’s plenty of other stuff to eat first for me at least, despite what the World Health Organization might think.
We picked a busy spot on the corner of BINHE LU near the border. There wasn’t another Westerner in sight, so we watched how it worked for a while and then dived in. We did have to work at being served, I’m sure they were more frightened of us than we were of them!
There was a queue of 10 baskets when we added ours to the pile We ordered our two portions of noodles (in retrospect, one would have done). A couple of beers and two bottles of water kept us busy until our food arrived.
There are several large metal cauldrons, or metal buckets, filled with some type of broth, simmering away. Your basket of foodstuff is emptied into the cauldron, in the relevant order for cooking, while still on the sticks. The sticks are removed throughout the cooking. It’s all remarkably quick.
Your noodles are added to a metal sieve on the side and then when it’s all done, it’s dumped into a large metal bowl. Then it’s handed off to another member of staff.
It’s then taken to the spice and condiment table. It’s here that a spoonful or more of a variety of spices and chili and other gorgeous-looking, fabulous-smelling concoctions are added to your bowl. A handful of herbs are added to the top and it’s all yours!
Delicious. If we’d been able to communicate we would have asked for a bit more spice and heat, but it was still really good. Really good to the tune of 40 Yuan. That’s about 4 GBP, or US $6.00.
Perfect. Now we’re to tackle those stairs to the seventh floor again to the Hua Yua Hotel because we’re off to the rice fields of Yuangyang tomorrow.
Before you cross into China
Before you set off across the border into China there are some key things that you must do. We’ve put together a checklist – be sure to read and do them before you set off!
Most importantly – Download a VPN
Without a VPN you are unlikely to be able to access sites like Gmail (even from your phone apps), Google Maps, and Facebook. Since August 2018 the Chinese government has been blocking access to HTTPS sites – which include most booking, accommodation, and even ASocialNomad. Download a VPN – virtual private network – and install it BEFORE you get to China.
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Our Best Buy VPN for China is ExpressVPN – it has unparalleled privacy, performance, a large number of servers, and a GREAT price too. Buy AND install before you get to China
The Chinese government frequently blocks access to sites that it sees as potentially against its communications policy. A VPN secures your internet traffic and masks your location. A VPN also makes it safer to input your credit card details and passports when you’re on public wifi networks.
Final Words on Going from Lao Cai to Hekou
This border crossing is one of the main ones between Vietnam and China. And while it’s a relatively easy border crossing to do, you will need to be organized. You’ll need your visa, a VPN, and a plan of where you’re going next. If you want to take a train you MUST prebook it. A bus ticket can only be bought from the bus station. And good luck!
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49 thoughts on “Lao Cai to Hekou – Vietnam to China Border Crossing”
Hi guys, I did the same trip a few days ago in the opposite direction. From Kunming to Lao Cai, Sapa and Hanoi. You should know that since the beginning of 2015 the train line from Kumning to Hekou is running again (6 hours journey). More informations on seat61.com.
You are right, the border crossing in both direction is to much easy ; 20 minutes from China to Vietnam, no queue and helpful officers. For a nice place to stay in Hekou, but still affordable, I recommand Xin Du Hotel, Binglang road N°1, close to the center. Typically chinese hotel with no english speaking ; the room is about 120 RMB (20 $).
Great, thanks for letting us know! The train would have made it much easier!
I’m about to do this trip tomorrow. Thank you so much for the info!
No worries! good luck and enjoy China, it’s amazing there.
Hello from Thailand,
We are looking for the info on travelling from Vietnam to Kunming by train (also how to cross the border), and your blog is really helpful.
I have read it thoroughly.
Thanks
Thanks for the kind comments, I hope your trip goes well. We bought our train tickets in Vietnam from Hanoi railway station and our train tickets in China in person from railway stations. CTrip now allows you to buy train tickets online (what a HUGE relief – as the lines are huge in China, and you usually end up in the wrong line!). It also helps with planning your travel, as we never quite knew if we’d be able to travel on the day we wanted to, or on the train we wanted!. Let us know if there’s anything else we can help with!
Thank you guys, this post is super helpful and written with great detail (appreciate the humour too heehee) so appreciative of your effort in doing this – I am planning to make a border crossing and hope it will be just as smooth! BTW the exit/entrance cards (for rest of China) are yellow-coloured and i wonder if that’s the same for this crossing too? Thanks again xx
Hi ! thanks for the comment – we actually found all our China border crossings easy – Mongolia > China, this one and China > Hong Kong too (although I guess that doesn’t count so much!). I’m pretty sure out entrance/exit cards were white, but I’m going to dig back through photos and see what I took – just as soon as this internet connection winds up above walking speed!!
I surfed into your blog as I was researching the Vietnamese border crossing with China and this was extremely helpful and detailed! I live in China (Kunming) and know southern Yunnan quite well. Thanks for the accurate information!
Your blog is fantastically helpful. One question, which website did you buy your online bus ticket from Hekou to Kunming on?
We’re planning to go by train but it seems like they only allow 20 days booking in advance, which is too risky for us as we’re applying for visa 1 month prior our departure. Again, thanks for your blog!
Hallo there and thanks for your comment – when we used the bus from Hekou we went to Xinjie and booked the bus at the bus station the day before we travelled. For train travel you can use Ctrip – but the you can’t book Chinese trains more than 30 days ( some overnight sleepers are 20 days) in advance. I’ll comment separately on how to deal with the visa. Sarah
We need some train/bus booking documents to apply for a visa first so we really need some kind of itineraries ha ha. Look forward to your reply <3
Hallo! When it comes to your visa for China you will need an accommodation booking and travel and sometimes (depending on where you are applying from) your transport in and out of the country even back to your home country. But don’t worry, the details that you submit for the visa do NO have to be the trip that you take. View this as a paperwork exercise. Get the visa by creating an itinerary that you can book, print the bookings to PDF and then cancel those bookings that you do not want. Once you have your visa NO ONE checks that you are doing the route that you put in your visa application and it is Not referenced on your visa. We used booking.com to make bookings ( go for 4-5 nights in places it makes booking for the visa process easier ) and be sure to pick ones that have free cancellations. Write a letter to accompany your visa application detailing your (fake) route and submit it with your application. Stare that you will be booking a train / bus from x to y as soon as the bookings open. We’ve applied for and Received long stay tourist visas so far using this method. BUT we also had to include a “flight ticket” back to our home country – even though we planned to leave China overland. So we did this https://asocialnomad.com/travel/proof-of-onward-travel/ – we used the free option in there. And it worked both times ( and in other countries too). Getting a Chinese visa is a painful process but that’s all it is – just jump through the hoops and follow their rules. The country is fabulous. Drop us an email [email protected] if we can help further and Good Luck!
Thanks – just what was needed !
Thank you for all this very useful information. I’ve just bought my tickets to Xinjie at Hekou bus station for tomorrow and knowing about the green buses to get there was very helpful. The green bus fare is now 2 yuans. As for the Hekou-Xinjie bus timetable, it hasn’t changed: the only two daily buses leave at 6.10 and 9.00. Best regards, a fellow X-gen traveller
Thanks so much for the update! I will update the post – and its great to hear from another Gen Xer on the road!
I think no one knows how important is to have a good VPN in China. I used to live in Beijing, and I remember I had a hard time finding a well-performing service. So, please remember, if Facebook, Google or other social apps is essential to you – do some digging on reviews online and make sure to purchase a service before leaving. If someone would want my opinion, I managed to get the best results with NordVPN. One thing, their price could be lower, but I purchased it with discount deal75, so it reduced about 3-4 times. Hope that helps.
A massive thank you for such a detailed guide. We are currently in Sa Pa and cross the border tomorrow so it’s extremely helpful to have such a detailed guide available to help.
Many thanks,
Meegan
Good Luck! Hope you love that part of China as much as we did!
thanks. the little green bus was the missing piece.
harwood
Just did this in March 2019. All accurate information here. Well done. However, it cost only 20 Yuan to take the taxi from the border to the Hekou train station. Fixed price. The cabbies will not use the meter.
Great, glad it was useful! I’ll update the taxi fare, thank you1!
Hello Sarah!
I’m so glad I stumbled across ASocialNomad!
I have a question..
I plan on entering China from Vietnam (via Lao Cai) and flying out of China (from Beijing).
Would it be okay If I showed a train ticket (from Hekou to Kunming) and a flight ticket out of Beijing for my visa?
Do i Have to book a flight from Hanoi to China even though I have proof of departure (flight out of Beijing)?
Hi there! Remember that the visa process is a paper exercise – and that they want you to show that how you will get in and how you will get out. (and preferably they prefer you to show that you are flying to your home country (!!! – I guess the paperwork process doesn’t understand people don’t just travel from their home country!!) – for your outbound that sounds ok. It depends on where you are applying for your visa from – we applied in London, (twice), which is VERY strict, but have had readers apply from all over the world, it appears to be less strict in the countries around China. They do, in all cases, appear to want to know how you are getting in – so you can book a cancellable flight in and out – the US carriers do a 24 hour no fee cancel deal. I would recommend something like this. Book it, PDF it and cancel it. There does not need to be any correlation at this time between what you say on your visa and what you actually do! Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Lao Cai is the central tourist area of the North with scenic Sa Pa town in the clouds, charming market, the top of Phan Xi Pang and Lao Cai International Border Gate. Lao Cai has many historical places, natural caves, specialties and is a place bearing the unique cultural characteristics of many ethnic groups.
A very helpful entry as we are planning on crossing border on Feb 2020. Very informative. TQ in advance. Hope our journey will be smooth. By the way, is there any bus or train direct from Hekou to Lijiang ? Or we still have to transit in Kunming?
Hi there – for Hekou to Ljiang you’ll still need to go via Kunming.
Hello. Is anyone aware if the border is over right now due to the coronavirus? We know air travel from Vietnam is not possible but is the road border still possible?
It seems that the Vietnamese government has ordered open the Chinese-vietnam border crossings that were closed for Tet (although LaoCai Hekou was not one of those), so it seems likely that they border IS open. However, you’ll need to be aware that virtually ALL the countries surrounding mainland China are either imposing a 14 day quarantine on people coming over the border, or not accepting foreigners. the UK Government has advised “only essential travel to mainland China” and have evacuated all but essential embassy staff – so you’d also want to check if your travel insurance would be valid if you travel into the country.
Hi..your write up is very useful to those who want to do the vietnam/ china border crossing.
Thanks so much for the relevant informations.
We want to travel to China from Vietnam by train. But the problem is how to get China visa without a Flight ticket.
Please guides.
You can book a ticket that has a full refund, or some airlines have the ability to book a ticket and cancel for free within 24 hours. All you need for the visa is to get a print of the ticket or booking to go with the visa application. There is no checking when you enter China that you are entering China or doing the itinerary that you said on your visa aplication in the way that you said.
With the difficulties of obtaining green health code to travel via air, can I cross into China through the land border at also Cai – Hekou right now in 2022 thanks.
The best source for the current border crossing details is the Chinese Embassy in Vietnam (or indeed the country from where you want to travel from) – https://vn.china-embassy.org/ – they’re pretty strict on where you’ve been recently (and by recently, they mean in the last month!) The embassy also says “1. Given the potential risk of Covid-19 and travel cost, please stick to the principle of Do Not Travel Unless Urgent or Necessary. If you must go to China via flights, please avoid unnecessary outdoor activities after medical tests, be aware of personal hygiene and self-protection, thus lowing the risk of getting infected before boarding.”. There were several reports of the border being closed in January (https://www.reuters.com/world/asia-pacific/vietnam-urges-china-urgently-reopen-border-gates-trade-stalls-2022-01-02/) – but also check with your country of citizenship to see what they say about whether you will be allowed in. Sorry it’s not better news!
Can you cross the border now? I have a visa for China that is a work visa. If I cross the border can I quarantine there before heading back to Shanghai?
Hi.thanks for the info.
Its the border open now.? With the new updates of restrictions maybe will be open for early january??
Hi there – I’d expect the land border to open when the other borders do, this has been an important border for Vietnam/China trade. I’ll update when I hear more
Hi I have read today that its is going finally reopened for January 8.
https://en.vietnamplus.vn/china-to-resume-operation-of-border-gates-with-vietnam-in-lao-cai/246567.vnp
Anyone can confirm.
Thanks
Thanks for the great info.Do you think if you leave Vietnam at 7am you can make the 8.45am train to Kunming at Hekou North station?
That might be a bit tight Fionna, everything would have to go really smoothly. If you don’t have any other options, I’d be waiting at the border for them to open. You’ll also need 1) the train station name written in Mandarin 2) cash ready to pay the driver.
China is one hour ahead of Vietnam. So you’d actually be approaching the Vietnamese border exit at 8 am Chinese time. You have to exit Vietnam and then enter China, and then it’s at least a 15 taxi ride to the station.
Good luck! And please do let me know how you get on.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed post! Am seeing if I can plan a trip (from Singapore) to kill two birds with one stone, going to Fansipan as well as crossing over the border to visit some places in Yunnan province.
This guide just gave me so much confidence that it can be done :’) Thank you!
(just hope not too much has changed since this was well before the Covid pandemic)
Thanks for your kind comments. We do try to keep the content up to date, so have had comments from recent travelers that we add back into – and would love to hear how your trip goes when you arrive, then everyone who reads it can also benefit! Safe travels!
Hi Sarah,
Excellent information and I had the same question as previous lady about crossing the Vietnam border at 7am (8am in China) and getting the 10.00am train at Hekou North to Kunming! We’re a group of 6 Aussies travelling to Dali for my eldest sons wedding. Would it be better to cross the border the day before our train, stay the night in Kekou at a hotel and then go to train station?
Thanks kindly,
Tracey & Frank
Hi Tracey, I would go the night before, in case there are any problems, as you’ve obviously got a hard stop deadline for the wedding! While the border may not be busy, you’ve a big group to get through and sods law indicates that if something can go wrong it will go wrong!
Thanks Sarah,
I’m pretty sure that’s what we’ll do and book one nights accomodation in Hekou North and get the first train to Kunming.
Still looking at either booking a private minibus or the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai.
Cheers Tracey
Can someone recommend a travel agency in Hanoi who will offer a Hekou visa run with same day return? I don’t need any visas, just bus and bike/taxi to/from bordergate.
Hi there, thanks for the info. I just want to confirm that it is still doable to walk across the border into china from lao cai, and then bus/taxi to the bus or train station? I have a chinese visa and speak basic mandarin. thanks!
Yes its still doable.You can still walk across the border and also take a taxi or the bus to the bus or train station.