How to Ride the Darjeeling Indian Hill Railway and Toy Train

I am covered in soot, it’s in my hair, down the back of my t-shirt and I keep spitting it out of my mouth.   I’m also freezing cold.  So much so that I’ve had to spend 25 rupees on a hat.  But I’m grinning madly.  I’ve just been on the Darjeeling Indian Hill Railway.

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This was another bucket list day.

We are in Darjeeling.  And we just rode the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Toy Train.  It was only the short 2-hour trip from Darjeeling up to Ghum and back again. The railway station at Ghum is the highest station in India and the third highest in the world.  But it was still the Toy Train that took us both ways.

Indian Hill Railway History

The first of the Indian Hill Railways to be built in 1881, the toy train was used to run from Siliguri at 484 feet up to Ghum at 7487 feet, and then down to Darjeeling station.   Darjeeling sits at 6812 feet and the end of the line, 48 miles or 78 kilometers later.   The train takes 7 painstaking hours to run the entire route.

The Indian Hill Railways

Along with the hill railways at Ooty, Matheran, and Shimla, the railways have been declared as Unesco World Heritage sites.  Darjeeling was added in 1999, and the others in later years.

The Darjeeling Hill Railway

Following landslides in 2010 and 2012, most of the railway was closed. Teasers appeared in the news earlier in 2015 that the line was about to be opened again. Apart from the joy rides (see below) what was open when we were there was only the line from Kurseong to Darjeeling.  A couple of diesel, two-carriage trains running the route each day. However, currently (2023) the train is once again running the full route from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling.

Joy Rides on the Darjeeling Toy Trains

With most of the line closed our only option was the joy ride to Ghum. The DHR runs up to six “Joy Ride” trains a day that start at Darjeeling Railways Station.  They run up to the Ghum Station, wait for 30 minutes, and then return.   When we visited, there were three diesel trains a day and three steam trains doing this route.

Darjeeling to Ghum Indian Hill Railway Cost

The joy ride seats are not cheap on either the diesel train (1000Rs in 2023) or the steam locomotive (1500Rs in 2023) but when we visited there were still no spare seats.

We, of course, opted for steam.  Hence the soot.   But there is nothing more magical than grinning wildly with black bits of soot sticking to your teeth.  There’s nothing more special than getting wet from the steam as you hang your head out of the window on a corner.  Listening to the whistle and huff and puff of the engine making it up the grade is a dream come true.

Original Steam Locomotives

All the steam engines currently in use are of a design built by Sharp, Stewart and Company.  This was later the North British Locomotive Company between 1889 and 1925. Thirty four were built – by 2005 only 12 were left.  Some have gone to other railways, and one even back to the UK where it runs on a private railway.

Engine Trouble in Darjeeling

We left Darjeeling about 15 minutes late, as they had to change the engine.  Now we’re on the Mountaineer, engine number 769.  It was built in Glasgow in 1904 and one of the door handles on a carriage was also broken, so we also picked up a different carriage.

There are just two carriages as we attach to the engine and head out.

The tiny 2 foot (610mm) gauge track runs along the road. Not along just the side of the road, but on the actual road.

It wends its way across the road and it takes precedence over all the other road traffic.

Water Stops and the Batasia Loop

We stop after 10 minutes at the Western Water Stop, fill up with water, and then we’re off again.  Now to climb up to the Batasia Loop.

It’s here that you’ll find the Memorial to Gorkha soldiers who died from local villages, and we’ll use the loop on our return to descend more efficiently.

After a 10-minute stop, we’re off again, climbing to Ghum (or Ghoom, even the railway can’t decide how to spell the name, so it goes with both).

This is the end of the line for this train.

Stopping at Ghum

We stop here for 30 minutes just enough time to watch the ashes being scooped out of the tray at the bottom of the engine.  The train staff now move the engine to the other end of the train, so she can pull us home.

There’s enough time also to visit the small DHR Museum.

The DHR Museum at Ghum

It’s very small a lot is taken up with the process of becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site.  There are several walls of old photos – including a look at what Darjeeling station used to look like before they replaced it with the current monstrosity.  And this fab shot of the toy train next to a “real” engine.

Ghum back to Darjeeling

And it’s time for home.  We seem to have lost half the passengers, which isn’t a bad thing as we spread out on the seats. This carriage was designed for a different era of thinner hips and poorer (or do I mean better) diets.  There’s more room to breathe on the way back.  We stop briefly for water again and then steam into Darjeeling.  I’m still grinning with black soot-spotted teeth and most definitely freezing.

As bucket list items go, it was easy to organize.  There wasn’t the adrenalin rush of the plank walk in Huashan, but its memory will make me grin for a good long time.

Where to Stay in Darjeeling

There are some great places to stay in Darjeeling– here’s our pick of the luxury places to stay in Darjeeling, mid-range places to stay in Darjeeling, and budget accommodation in Darjeeling.

The Elgin, Darjeeling: The Elgin is located in central Darjeeling. Rooms at this top Darjeeling hotel are equipped with a flat-screen TV, a private bathroom with a bathtub and shower, air-conditioning, a seating area, and views of the city. This five-star Darjeeling hotel has an in-house restaurant, The Orchid Dining Room as well as the Gazebo at the Garden, and the Tea Lounge and Timber Bar. Wellness facilities such as spa facilities are also offered. The Elgin is a luxury hotel perfect to stay at when in Darjeeling. You can check room rates and dates available here.

Ramada by Wyndham Darjeeling, Darjeeling: The Ramada is located near central Darjeeling. This superb Darjeeling hotel has rooms with a flat-screen TV, air-conditioning, a private bathroom, views of the mountain, a wardrobe, and a heating system. This top hotel in Darjeeling has an in-house restaurant and a relaxing atmosphere at the on-site coffee house. This fabulous Darjeeling hotel also has a wellness center with spa treatments, massage sessions, and fitness activities. The Ramada is the ideal place to stay when visiting Darjeeling. Read more reviews and check room rates and dates available here.

Arcadia Heritage Resort, Darjeeling: The Arcadia Heritage Resort is located just a few minutes away from central Darjeeling. Rooms at this heritage Darjeeling hotel are fitted with a seating area, a flat-screen TV, air-conditioning, a private bathroom with a shower, and complimentary toiletries. Breakfast can be served directly in guestrooms. This Darjeeling resort also offers barbeque facilities, walking tours, and a garden/lounge area. The Arcadia Heritage Resort is a fantastic place to stay when you want to immerse yourself in the culture of Darjeeling. You can find out more about the accommodation, room rates, and available dates here.

UNESCO Sites to Visit in India

If you like visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then you’ll love our guides to India’s best World Heritage sites

• Champaner Pavagadh, in Gujarat
• The Taj Mahal in Agra
• The Ajanta Caves
• Ellora Caves
• Khajuraho’s Temples
• Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi
• Sanchi
• The Hill Forts of Rajasthan
• The Darjeeling Hill Railway
• Qutub Minar in Delhi
• The Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya
• Mahabalipuram

Travel Tips for Exploring India

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• Book the best tours and guides in India on GetYourGuide or Klook
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• Book Trains and Buses in India with 12goAsia

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