Ica, Peru is the center of the Peruvian Pisco industry. It’s also where you’ll find the best opportunity to taste Peruvian wine, which has been made here since the Spanish colonized the country. There are a variety of Peruvian vineyards and wineries here – all of whom also distil Peru’s most famous export of Pisco. Welcome to everything you need to know about Peruvian wine tasting in Ica. You’ll get to learn about Peru wine and how to take a pisco vineyard tour. And, as the Bodegas in Ica do too, we’ll throw in a few details on what is Pisco and where to find the best Pisco too.
Whether you visit the Ica wineries from Huacachina or Ica, there are great opportunities here to check out the emerging Peruvian winemaking industry and also to taste the different Pisco liquors on offer.
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Where to Stay in Ica, Peru
There are a host of places to stay in Ica – here’s our pick of the luxury places to stay in Ica, mid-range places to stay in Ica, and budget accommodation in Ica.
Hotel Las Flores, Ica, Peru: Hotel Las Flores is a luxury hotel conveniently located in the Ayabaca part of Ica. This luxury hotel in Ica with a swimming pool provides internet access and air conditioning in all of its rooms and rooms have either a balcony or terrace. Private bathrooms include complimentary toiletries and they have great showers. The hotel restaurant has some great dining options and also provides breakfast. This Ica luxury hotel is in a great, quiet location and has superb staff for your stay in Ica. If you’re looking for a luxury hotel with the best amenities, then book the Hotel Las Flores in Ica
El Huerto Hostel, Ica, Peru: El Huerto Hostel is a mid-range hostel conveniently situated just 300 metres from the main square in Ica. All of the rooms at this mid-range El Huerto Hostel, which is arranged around a lovely central courtyard, in Ica offer internet access. The patio here is lovely and shady and a fabulous breakfast place. There is also internet access in all areas and all rooms are en-suite. This is a great option for families and groups as there are different room configurations available and the front desk is available 24 hours. This is a great place to stay in Ica. Want to see more about El Huerto Hostel?
The Upcycled Hostel Huacachina, Ica, Peru: The Upcycled Hostel Huacachina is a budget hostel just 10 minutes walk from Huacachina, near Ica. This budget Hostel near Huacachina in Ica offers internet access in all rooms and has air conditioning in all public areas. Some rooms have A/C, others have fans. And if you’re looking for a chilled-out hostel that’s not a full-on party hostel, then this is the one for you. There’s an outdoor swimming pool, a great central bar and a garden. If you’re looking for a hostel in Ica with great amenities while on a budget, this is the place for you! Want to see more about The Upcycled Hostel Huacachina?
Wine Tasting From Ica
Most people visit the area around Ica, Peru to stay at the desert oasis of Huacachina. And they visit Huacachina, to go sandboarding, dune buggying and scout out a photo of the famous Peruvian oasis. Ica, though, the city closest to Huacachina is famous for being the largest producer of Peruvian wine and wine in the country. It’s also recognized as being the best Peruvian wine region.
More well-known for delivering Pisco to the world than its neighbour, Chile, Peru’s most famous export, Pisco, is made here in huge quantities, but it’s the emerging wine production that we were drawn to.
Most of the bodegas that you are able to visit here close to Ica and Huacachina produce both wine and Pisco. Many allow Pisco tours and tastings as well as discounted retail sales. There are large industrial bodegas, like Tacama (which could give Napa wineries a run for their money), the smaller, boutique, but rather nice Bodegas Vista Alegre and the family-run operations like Bodegas Lazo. Whichever Pisco distillery Peru or Peruvian winery you choose to visit, there are a variety of ways to get there, and some great opportunities to taste the produce from this unique area.
How to take a Peruvian wine tour from Ica
There are three ways in which you can take a wine tour of bodegas from Ica. The first is the easiest.
- Book a Peruvian wine tour online from Ica – check details and book now
- All the tours you can take in the Ica Area – Peruvian wine tasting tours, pisco tasting tours, sand buggy tours in Huacachina and more! > check them out now
- Get collected in either Ica or Huacachina and take this private wine and Pisco tasting tour for 3.5 hours. You’ll get a bilingual guide and visit 3 different wineries and distilleries to both learn about Peruvian Wine and Pisco but also taste it! > book now!
- From Lima take a small group tour to the Ballesteras Islands, Ica and Huacachina – combine wildlife, Pisco, Peruvian wine and the oasis of Huacachina. This is a GREAT tour if you’re short of time and want to pack everything in! Book NOW!
- Book a tour when you arrive in Ica or Huacachina – you can do this with your hotel or hostel, or if they’re unable to provide a tour, you can book through the Huacachina.com site.
- Hire a taxi and driver and ask him to take you to particular wineries. You can either ask him to wait or just get you to the first winery and the find another driver to take you onto the next bodega.
The History of Peruvian Wine
Wine from Peru dates back to when the Spanish colonised this South American country in the 16th century. It was Francisco de Carabantes and Bartolme de Terrazas who planted the first grapes which arrived shortly after the first conquistadors. The first vineyards in South America were planted near Cusco, Peru, but the most prominent ones of the 16th and 17th century were those that were established near Ica Peru.
An increase in Spanish in Peru and neighbouring Bolivia (as the gold, silver and mineral mining industry grew) led to an increase in demand for wine – an element of the workers’ salaries was paid in wine!
There was something of a disruption in 1687 when the entire southern coastal area of Peru was struck by an earthquake and many cities, including Ica, were destroyed along with wine cellars and the ceramic containers used for wine storage. It was after this that there was a growth in the production of the grape brandy that Peru is perhaps most famous for, Pisco.
The Location of Peruvian Vineyards
There are five different Peruvian wine regions.
- The Peruvian North Coat Wine Region
- The Peruvian Central Coast Wine Region
- The Peruvian South Coast Wine Region
- The Andean Sierra Wine Region of Peru
- The Selva Wine Region of Peru
The majority of Peru’s vineyards are located in the central coastal area – near Ica and Pisco. The best known of pisco vineyards Peru are based here – Tacama and Vista Alegres. Peruvian wineries are known as bodegas, so you’ll hear and see the names
- Bodega Tacama
- Bodega Alegres Vista
- Bodega Lazo
This Peruvian Central Coastal Wine region is known as the best as it gets cool air from the offshore ocean breeze but is high altitude. They are in many areas in a desert and are very dry. It’s very similar in conditions to that of Chile’s northern wine region.
Grapes grown in Peruvian Vineyards
The main grapes that are grown in Peruvian vineyards are
- Albillo
- Alicante Bouschet
- Barbera
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- Grenache
- Malbec
- Moscatel
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Torontel
The Origins of Pisco
It’s impossible to talk about Peruvian wine without talking about Peruvian Pisco – it would be rare indeed for a bodega to produce wine without producing what’s known as Peru’s national drink – Pisco. The main question that is asked when talking about Pisco is whether Pisco comes from Peru or does Pisco come from Chile?
What is Pisco?
Pisco is a type of brandy, a spirit that is distilled from fermented fruit juice or wine. It is nothing like the brandies that you might recognize, say Cognac. Most spirits are aged in wooden, oak, barrels, which tend to smooth the liquor. One of the key tenets of Pisco production is that it CANNOT be aged in wooden barrels.
What grapes is Peruvian Pisco made from?
While more than 80% of Peruvian Pisco is made from, or at least containing the Quebranta grape varietal, Pisco can ONLY be made from eight different types of grapes
- Albilla
- Italia
- Mollar
- Moscatel
- Negra Criolla
- Quebranta
- Torontel
- Uvina
Where is Peruvian Pisco made?
Peruvian Pisco can be made in one of the five coastal regions of Peru
- Ica
- Lima
- Arequipa
- Moquega
- Tacna
Rules of Making Peruvian Pisco
Pisco can only be made from one of the five coastal regions of Peru
- Pisco can only be made from the following grape varieties Albilla; Italia; Mollar; Moscatel; Negra; Criolla; Quebranta; Torontel; Uvina
- Peruvian Pisco can only be distilled, by law in a copper pot still.
- Peruvian Pisco must be single distilled
- Peruvian Pisco must be distilled to proof between 38 – 48 per cent ABV – you can’t add water to dilute it after distillation – like is done with other spirits such as whisky or gin.
- Peruvian Pisco must be distilled from WINE – not the leftover pomace from the production of wine. This the same rule that applies to Armagnac, Cognac and Jerez Brandy.
- Pisco cannot be aged in wood, but it should rest of at least 3 months in stainless steel, glass, or a traditional clay contained called a botijas – or in slang, a Pisco.
Peruvian Pisco versus Chilean Pisco
Both Peru and Chile claim to be the origin of Pisco. Both Chile and Peru produce a liquor called Pisco, both of which are distilled from grapes. Which came first and which claim is correct is a hotly debated topic, that I’m not going to get into today, but there are some differences between Peruvian Pisco and Chilean Pisco.
The main difference is that Chilean Pisco does not need to be distilled to proof, it can also be distilled multiple times. Chilean Pisco CAN be aged in wood. Chilean Pisco can be made from 14 different grape varietals, as opposed to Peru’s 8. Chilean Pisco is also graded by proof – there is 30%, 35%, 40% and 43%.
In Chile Peruvian Pisco cannot be labelled as Pisco and in Peru Chilean Pisco cannot be labelled as Pisco.
There you go – a primer on Pisco and the primary differences between Chilean Pisco and Peruvian Pisco, now let’s get back to Peruvian wine!
Important things to know about Peruvian Wine
The most important fact about Peruvian wine is that it’s mostly sweet. The sweetness of Peruvian wine is in large part due to the climate. The region here rarely has rain or clouds as a result of the cold water coming up from Antarctica and the Andes mountains to the east of the region.
You’ll also struggle to find Peruvian wine outside of Peru. There are a few importers in the United States, but Peruvian wine is rarely exported to Europe or elsewhere.
Which wineries should you visit in Peru?
I wrote earlier that there are five different wine regions of Peru. One of the benefits of visiting bodegas in Ica is their proximity to each other. Huacachina is a great place for many travellers to stay and it’s extremely close to the Ica Valley. Two of Peru’s top wineries, Tacama and Bodega Vista Alegre are also based here – it makes sense to combine being able to visit them with seeing some of the other attractions of the Ica area.
Which Bodegas should you visit in Ica, Peru?
We recommend selecting from the top 5 Ica bodegas. We took two days to visit wineries in the Ica area, most winery tours will visit one of two Peruvian bodegas, so in order to visit more, you’ll need to stay longer or engage a private driver.
Wine tasting at Bodega Tacama Ica, Peru
Tacama is the oldest vineyard in South America, having started in 1540. Wine tours are available here in both Spanish and English. We joined the Spanish tour, which, after the introductory video, which had English subtitles, was relatively easy to follow. The video explains the history of Tacama and the winemaking process in general. The first grapes to be used here came from the Spanish Canary Islands. This vineyard, originally 200 hectares was first of all a monastery and then it turned into a commercial vineyard. Today they grow 20 varieties of grape, having started with 4.
Harvest here is from December until March. While Tacama produces 100,000 litres of Pisco each year at 43% proof, it produces one million litres of Peruvian wine.
A tour at Tacama costs 10 soles or 15 soles on long weekends and holidays.
The Tacama vineyard is gorgeous. The restaurant and garden are beautifully presented, and you’d be hard pushed to not think you were in Napa Valley, California. Tacama is the best place to start your wine tour Ica as the introductory video covers the basics of wine production in an easy-to-follow manner.
Peruvian Wine Tasting at Bodega Vista Alegre
The next best Ica winery to visit is Bodegas Vista Alegre. The guide there, speaks Spanish and English and we took a private tour. Vista Alegre was established in 1857 and has 180 hectares of grapes. This is perhaps the best-known winery in Ica. It was originally a Jesuit monastery until 1857 when it was converted to a winery by the Picasso brother. It looks a little forbidding, entering through the closed gates, but the old hacienda in the centre is delightful. The owner still lives on site.
The tasting here at Alegre Vistas – as at Tacama included wines and then several piscos. A wine tour and tasting at Bodegas Vista Alegre costs 5 soles.
We were lucky enough to be on-site while the Pisco was being made and got to see it going through the tanks.
Having a private tour also gave us an opportunity to speak with Jesus – the incredibly knowledgeable guide here. That, in turn, led us to a small bar out of the way in Ica that night, where, as promised, Jesus made us the best Pisco sours we had in Peru!
If you’re interested in tasting the wine rather than just drinking it, it’s wise to split your tasting up – several tastes of wine and then 43% proof Pisco means you definitely go back to your hotel feeling happy, but after a few piscos, you don’t really taste much anymore!
Taste Peruvian Wine at El Catador
El Catador is a small bodega near Ica. Compared to both Tacama and Alegre Vista this is very touristy, but it’s worth a quick visit. Wine tours here are free, you’ll get a guide who speaks your language and they’ll take you through the process, show you where the grapes are pressed, and the hundreds of clay pitchers – piscos – are stored.
Then onto the tasting, where, to be honest, we learned more about Peruvian drinking games than wine tasting. The wine was warm, sweet and not particularly pleasant but that didn’t seem to matter, as it appears that with our guide at El Catador, the best way to drink them is to throw it back like a shot. Still, you’ll get to learn a few Peruvian drinking games.
Bodega Lazo
We didn’t get an official guide at Bodega Lazo, but our taxi driver for the day took us around. This is a family-run vineyard and unique in more than a few ways. The Pisco here is still stored in an authentic way, in the botijas or piscos, the clay vases. Most of this tour consisted of wandering around a dusty, dark pseudo-museum-like area with random artefacts from the bodega’s history.
The wine and Pisco tasting here at Bodegas Lazo was similar to that of El Catador – warm, sweet and sticky and the first to be delivered in plastic disposable glasses. A very different experience to that of Tacama and Alegre Vistas.
Hacienda La Caravedo
If you have room for more Peruvian wine and Pisco then it’s worth a trip to La Caravedo, which has been in operation since 1684. This upmarket Pisco distillery is now home to the internationally well-known Pisco Porton.
How to take a Peruvian wine tour from Ica
There are three ways in which you can take a wine tour of bodegas from Ica. The first is the easiest.
- Book a Peruvian wine tour online from Ica – check details and book now
- All the tours you can take in the Ica Area – Peruvian wine tasting tours, pisco tasting tours, sand buggy tours in Huacachina and more! > check them out now
- Get collected in either Ica or Huacachina and take this private wine and Pisco tasting tour for 3.5 hours. You’ll get a bilingual guide and visit 3 different wineries and distilleries to both learn about Peruvian Wine and Pisco but also taste it! > book now!
- From Lima take a small group tour to the Ballesteras Islands, Ica and Huacachina – combine wildlife, Pisco, Peruvian wine and the oasis of Huacachina. This is a GREAT tour if you’re short of time and want to pack everything in! Book NOW!
- Book a tour when you arrive in Ica or Huacachina – you can do this with your hotel or hostel, or if they’re unable to provide a tour, you can book through the Huacachina.com site.
- Hire a taxi and driver and ask him to take you to particular wineries. You can either ask him to wait or just get you to the first winery and the find another driver to take you onto the next bodega.
How to take a Pisco tasting tour from Huacachina
The easiest way to book a Pisco and wine tasting tour from Huacachina is to book via your hostel. Most organized tours from Huacachina visit 2 wineries – usually either Tacama or Vista Alegres and El Contador.
Our Learnings about Peruvian Wine Tasting
We’ve tasted wine in many of the main wine-producing regions of the world. We’ve also tasted wine in some of the stranger wine regions of the world, like India (surprisingly good), Myanmar (ye gods, no, just no), and Turkey (hmm, it was excellent). We’d known that we were going to taste and explore Pisco here in Peru, but this wine-producing region of Peru was a pleasant surprise. While most of the wines produced here at sweet, there is the occasional dry red available. If you’re visiting Huacachina or Ica it is well worth taking a look at what Peruvian has to offer it may just surprise you, as it did us!
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Etymology
Old amphorae called pisko in Cañete Valley, Peru
The oldest use of the word pisco to denote Peruvian aguardiente dates from 1764.[5] The beverage may have acquired its Quechua name from the Peruvian town of Pisco, once an important colonial port for the exportation of viticultural products,[6] which is located on the coast of Peru in the valley of Pisco, by the river with the same name.[7] From there, “Aguardiente de Pisco” was exported to Europe, especially Spain, where the beverage’s name was abbreviated to “Pisco”.[8]
The Viennese newspaper Wiener Zeitung in 1835 reported on the Peruvian spirit made from Italia grapes:
A large quantity of a spirit known as Pisco de Italia, imported from Peru, was consumed in Chile. But since the import duties are so high, a similar grape with large oval berries has been used to produce a similar drink, which has almost completely displaced the Peruvian. [Ehemals wurde in Chile eine große Menge des unter dem Nahmen Pisco de Italia im Lande bekannten Branntweins verbraucht, der aus Peru kam; aber seitdem die Einfuhrzölle so hoch sind, hat man aus einer Art Traube mit großen ovalen Beeren ein ähnliches Getränk bereitet, welches das peruanische fast gänzlich verdrängt hat.]
— Wiener Zeitung, Saturday, 1 August 1835, page 1
In the Medical Lexikon of Robley Dunglison (1858) it is stated that, following observations of Swiss Johann Jakob von Tschudi:
In Peru, the common brandy obtained from grapes is the Aguardiente de Pisco, so called because shipped at the port of Pisco.
— Medical Lexicon: A Dictionary of Medical Science, 1858, page 859
Chilean linguist Rodolfo Lenz said that the word pisco was used all along the Pacific coast of the Americas from Arauco to Guatemala, and that the word would be of Quechua origin meaning “bird”.[9]
This claim is disputed by Chilean linguist Mario Ferreccio Podesta, who supports the former Real Academia Española etymology according to which pisco was originally a word for a mud container.[9] However, the Real Academia Española later supported Lenz’s theory, and underlines the Quechua origin.[9]
Other origins for the word pisco have been explored, including a Mapudungun etymology where “pishku” has been interpreted as “something boiled in a pot”, which would relate to the concept of burned wine (Spanish: vino quemado).[10]
The term influenced the Mexican Spanish use of the slang term pisto to denote distilled spirits generally.[citation needed]
History
Early Aguardientes
Zones of pisco production as established by Peruvian and Chilean law in red; the Department of Tarija, Bolivia where most singani is produced in green
Unlike the land in most of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, where only very few vineyards were established (mostly for the production of sacramental wine), some locations in the Viceroyalty of Peru were quite suitable for growing grape vines. By 1560, Peru was already producing wine for commerce; over time, a significant wine industry arose in the region.[11][12] It grew sufficiently strong and threatening to the Spanish mercantilist policies that in 1595 the Spanish Crown banned the establishment of new vineyards in the Americas to protect the exports of its native wine industry; however, this order was largely ignored.[12] As further protectionist measures, the Crown forbade exportation of Peruvian wine to Panama in 1614 and Guatemala in 1615.[12]
In 1572, Santa Maria Magdalena, a town in Peru, had a port by the name Pisco. Pisco became a crucial route for distribution of an alcoholic beverage — aguardiente. Port of Pisco shortened the name to just Pisco, which was the name of the grape liqueur that was originated in the area.[13]
Distillation of the wine into pisco began in earnest around the turn of the 17th century, perhaps in response to these pressures.[12] Until the early 18th century, however, most aguardiente was still primarily used to fortify wine, in order to prevent its oxidation, rather than drunk on its own. This method of conservation corresponds with fortified wines that were shipped to Italy and Spain from other parts of the world e.g., wines from Madeira and Marsala.
In the 17th century production and consumption of wine and pisco were stimulated by the mining activities in Potosí, by then the largest city in the New World.[12][14]
Recession of Peruvian pisco
Bottles of Peruvian pisco
Historians state that the first grapes ever imported arrived in 1553. The production of pisco started at the end of the 16th century. After the process of fermentation and distillation the juice from the grapes was then made in to liquor. This juice was then stored in clay jars called piscos.[15]
The entire southern coast of Peru was struck by the 1687 Peru earthquake, which destroyed the cities of Villa de Pisco and Ica. Wine cellars in the affected area collapsed and mud containers broke, causing the nation’s wine-growing industry to collapse.[5][9]
Still, in the early 18th century wine production in Peru exceeded that of pisco. By 1764, pisco production dwarfed that of wine, representing 90% of the grape beverages prepared.[5] With the suppression of the Society of Jesus in Spanish America, Jesuit vineyards were auctioned off, and new owners typically did not have the same expertise as the Jesuits – leading to a production decline.[5]
In the late 18th century the Spanish Crown allowed the production of rum in Peru, which was cheaper and of lower quality than pisco.[5] In the 19th century demand for cotton in industrialized Europe caused many Peruvian winegrowers to shift away from vineyards to more lucrative cotton planting, contributing further to the decline of wine production and the pisco industry which depended on it.[9] This was particularly true during the time of the American Civil War (1861–1865) when cotton prices skyrocketed due to the Blockade of the South and its cotton fields.[5]
Pisco was also popular in the US, in San Francisco and nearby areas of California since the 1830s, during the Gold Rush, in the 1860s, and early to mid 1900s.[16][17]
In 1933, Chile was exporting good quality wines. However, they wanted to add their own version of Pisco in their wine shipments. Chileans did not know what to call it at first so, they called it pisco, because it was already a reputable name.[18]
CITY OF PISCO WHERE THE NAME AND THE PRODUCT COMES FROM WAS FOUNDED IN 1640 – WAY BEFORE CHILE
Which is the largest importer of Pisco from Peru?
In 2008, Peruvian pisco exports 48 percent more that Chile compared to the year before that, exceeding 1 million dollars, although Chile produces about three times as much pisco as Peru. Chile is also the top importer of pisco from Peru: 34% of the pisco produced in Peru is exported to Chile.
Pisco – Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pisco