The Ultimate Almaty Travel Guide

Almaty Travel Guide

Almaty is a proper destination in its own right, and it’s also the place you’ll keep coming back to. It’s where the Bishkek to Almaty crossing ends up if you’re coming overland from Kyrgyzstan, and it’s the departure point for most of Kazakhstan’s best day trips, so you’re likely to pass through more than once even on a single trip. Tree-lined avenues, mountains at the end of nearly every street, an excellent food scene, and a lived-in, unpretentious feel make it worth its own time, not just a stopover between flights. Here’s our travel guide to Almaty.

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If you’re putting together an Almaty plan of your own, here’s what this one covers: how to get here, where to base yourself, how long to spend, the top things to do, a map to help you get between them, the day trips worth adding on, where to eat and drink, and answers to the questions we get asked most about visiting.

How to Get to Almaty

Most people arrive by air at Almaty Airport (ALA); see my full guide to getting to and from Almaty Airport for transfers into the city. A good chunk of readers arrive overland instead, crossing from Kyrgyzstan on the Bishkek to Almaty route, which is one of the site’s most-read posts and a real, well-trodden way in if you’re already in Central Asia. It got a whole lot easier in recent months, so be sure to read how and why it did.

Where to Stay to Explore Almaty

What pulls you toward one area over another in Almaty usually comes down to proximity, to a metro stop if you plan on using it, to the restaurants you want to eat at, and to the sights you’re actually here for. Stay central, and you’ll walk to most things on this list. Stay further out, and you’ll rely on Yandex or the bus, which in a city this affordable barely costs you anything extra anyway.

 

In each of the times we’ve stayed in Almaty, we’ve opted for apartments within the square you can draw between Zhibek Zholy metro, Abay metro and Abylai Khan Avenue. It’s central enough to walk to Panfilov Park, the Green Bazaar and most of the restaurants below, with a metro stop close by if the weather turns.

How Long to Visit Almaty for

Two full days is enough to cover the highlights in this guide comfortably, with a bit of time left over for a coffee stop (or two) and a slow wander through the bazaar. However, you’ll want to allow some time for seeing Kazakhstan’s sights that are within relatively easy reach of the city.

The Top Things to Do in Almaty

From Silk Road-era churches to Soviet war memorials and a local hill you ride up by cable car, to see the Beatles, here’s what’s worth your time in Almaty.

The first time we arrived in Almaty, we’d come overland from Bishkek, on a bus that took us all the way from Bishkek’s “new” bus station to Almaty. (You can book this bus online now) The bus took us all the way to Almaty, I said. Of course, I meant all the way to Almaty bus station, which is, as ever, miles out. You can walk from here to one of the metro stations, but that’s still a 35-minute hike, so we jump in a Yandex, which takes us to a café near our accommodation. Our driver is delighted we’re here and, as I get the front seat (Nigel and the bags are in the back as the boot is full of a gas tank), spends the entire trip showing me Instagram videos on his phone of what to see here in Kazakhstan. He’s wearing a seat belt, so I suppose I should be happy with that.

Obviously the way to get over a border day is to go for a beer. National Beers here in the ‘Stans aren’t the best. One in Kyrgyzstan was described, aptly, as “weak soapy water”; I’d add to that they didn’t use much soap in it, so we’ve been hunting down craft beers. In Almaty we found my favorite craft beer ever. It’s in a bar called “Habits”. The beer name translates as “Delicious Beer, Plague”. It’s a sour, and it’s like drinking beer that’s also sherbet. I love it. It’s here we met Vladimir. He’s Russian, here for work, but also to avoid war. He has one parent who’s Russian and one who’s Ukrainian. He’s a good man, loves Almaty because of the lifestyle, the hiking, and the freedom. He’s here in the bar because the traffic here is so bad it will take him much longer to drive home now than if he waits a few beers until it calms down. We leave him and head for dinner, where we discover a curious Kazakh custom. When women drink beer its served to them with a straw. I’m amused, but not enough to have another one. Time for bed, before we explore Almaty…

I’ve added where all these stops are on my map of things to do in Almaty. While Google Maps isn’t always the best here in Central Asia, it works just fine here in Almaty.

And so the first thing to do in Almaty? Well, a walking tour, of course!

Take a Walking Tour of Almaty

A walking tour is a good first move if it’s your first morning in the city; it strings together the historic center, gives you context on Almaty’s Soviet and Silk Road layers, and helps you get your bearings before exploring the rest of this list independently. We joined the freetours walking tour (details here).

It was raining when we woke up in Almaty. Not exactly perfect for our walking tour of Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest but second city and capital until 1997, when the capital was moved to Astana (my guide to Astana is here). We got to spend a fabulous four hours with Amy, that’s the anglicized name of our guide, Aiguerim, which means “wonderful moon”.

Walking Tour Options in Almaty include free tours and paid for ones here

Explore Almaty’s Subway Stations

Almaty has a metro system, aka the subway. The first line opened in 2011, 23 years after construction began (!). The project began when Kazakhstan was in the USSR; when the USSR collapsed, money from Moscow disappeared, and a whole lot of problems with funding continued for years. There’s still just a single line. Regardless. Each station has a theme, in the style of the glorious metro stations of Moscow and St Petersburg. Some are prettier than others. It’s dirt cheap to ride. 120 KZT. That’s around 17p. And as we just plan on taking a look at the stations, we won’t be going above ground until we’re done. Bargain activity. Of course, if you want to take a tour, then you can stump up US$50 and explore them with a guide.

Almaty Metro Station

I’ve written a full separate guide to touring Almaty’s subway stations if you want to make a dedicated afternoon of it rather than just passing through.

You’ll want to allow 2 hours to see the best stations, and your ticket will cost 120 KZT, so long as you don’t leave the stations (there’s no need to unless you particularly want to see something at one of them).

The Green Bazaar

As with every place we visit, there’s a “Green Bazaar” – where the foodstuffs are sold. And we find the original Aport apples (they’re enormous). We find mare’s milk, camel’s milk (tastes a bit like coconut milk), and a huge variety of those salted dried cheese balls, aka kurt. There’s fruit leather and Churchkela (which we first found in Georgia some years back). And a long-time favourite pomegranate juice. Freshly squeezed.

The Green Bazaar Almaty

Almaty’s Green Bazaar is a big, centuries-old covered market, and it’s where you’ll get the best feel for what people here actually eat: kazy (horse meat sausage), kurt (dried cheese balls), mountains of dried fruit and nuts, fresh bread, and every spice you’d need for a Central Asian kitchen.

The name of the city – which used to be “Alama ata” comes from the Kazakh word for apple. Apples are believed to have originated from here. And apples are all over the place. Giant apple statues on the streets, buckets and buckets of them at the train station, in motifs everywhere.

Apples at the Green Bazaar Almaty

LOTTE Rakhat Confectionery

Rakhat is Kazakhstan’s oldest chocolate maker, having been in business for more than 70 years. The LOTTE Rakhat store is a decent stop for edible souvenirs: boxed chocolates, local sweets, and a few halal options, all at reasonable prices.

Kazakhstan Chocolate from Lotte

It gets busy, so go earlier in the day if you want a quicker in and out. You’ll also find the flagship “Kazakhstan Chocolate”, with the vibrant turquoise blue wrapper in most supermarkets and stores.

The Ascension Cathedral

The Ascension Cathedral, also called Zenkov Cathedral after its architect, sits inside Panfilov Park itself, so you’ll likely see both in the same visit. The Cathedral was built entirely from wood between 1904 and 1907, without a single metal nail in its main frame; it somehow survived a magnitude 8.2 earthquake in 1911 completely intact.

The Ascension Cathedral Almaty

At 56 meters (183 feet) tall, with vivid, brightly painted domes, it’s one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world and still an active place of worship, so ladies, take your headscarves to wear inside.

Inside The Ascension Cathedral Almaty

Panfilov Park and the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Memorial

Panfilov Park started life as a city garden back in the 1870s, and was renamed in 1942 for the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, soldiers from Almaty’s own 316th Rifle Division who died defending Moscow that November. You can read about them here

Panfilov Park and the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Memorial

The Memorial of Glory, unveiled in 1975, is the park’s centerpiece: a huge black bronze-and-granite relief depicting soldiers from all 15 Soviet republics, with an eternal flame that’s burned continuously ever since. It’s an interesting park, not just a park to walk through on the way to the cathedral next door.

And those 15 Soviet Republics? Here they are (Armenia (Armenian SSR), Azerbaijan (Azerbaijan SSR), Belarus (Belorussian SSR), Estonia (Estonian SSR), Georgia (Georgian SSR), Kazakhstan (Kazakh SSR), Kyrgyzstan (Kirghiz SSR), Latvia (Latvian SSR), Lithuania (Lithuanian SSR), Moldova (Moldavian SSR), Russia (Russian SFSR), Tajikistan (Tajik SSR), Turkmenistan (Turkmen SSR), Ukraine (Ukrainian SSR) and Uzbekistan (Uzbek SSR)

The Military History Museum

The Military History Museum covers Kazakhstan’s military past from the Soviet era through independence, with uniforms, weapons and equipment on display. It’s a fairly niche stop, worth it if military history is your thing, and normally for us it is.

The Military History Museum and Tanks Almaty

However, we visited the Military Museum in Astana instead, and made do here in Almaty with the incredible display of tanks and weaponry outside the very brutalistic building that the museum is housed in,

The Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan

This is the country’s main history museum, and the standout exhibit is a replica of the Golden Man, the Scythian-era gold burial suit discovered at the Issyk burial mound outside Almaty in 1969. If you only have time for one museum in the city, make it this one.

  • How long to spend at the Central State Museum: 1 to 1.5 hours.

  • Central State Museum Entry: 5,000 KZT for foreign visitors, closed Tuesdays

Abai Square

Abai Square sits alongside the Republic Palace and is built around a monument to Abai Kunanbayev, the 19th-century poet and philosopher considered the founder of modern Kazakh literature.

Abai Square Almaty Kazakstan and monument to Abai Kunanbayev

It’s a pleasant public square rather than a big attraction in its own right, worth combining with the Republic Palace next door rather than a special trip on its own. You’ll also likely walk through/towards it if you’re heading to the Kok Tobe Gondola.

  • How to get to Abai Square: next to the Republic Palace on Abai Avenue.

  • How long to spend at Abai Square: 10 to 15 minutes.

  • Abai Square Entry: free.

Kok-Tobe Hill

Kok Tobe is a Central Asian city mountain in the way that Central Asia does parks. Meaning you can find a fun fair, ferris wheel, and all sorts of attractions like that to ride. But not particularly good views of mountains. You can take the gondola up Kok-Tobe Hill; however, for the best skyline view in the city, vague views of the mountains on one side, the whole of Almaty spread out on the other.

Gondola and TV Tower at Kok Tobe Almaty

The Beatles are here too. Oh, don’t worry, this isn’t one of those “Elvis is alive and living in Wichita” things. Back in the 60’s and the heyday of the Beatles, they became very famous here. Hippy Kazaks used to hang out in the park near the Opera House, being hippyish and listening to music. And so they were memorialized in Almaty in 2007. The Beatles, not the hippies. But the city council wouldn’t let them put the statue near the opera house. Instead, it went on a nearby mountain, Kok Tobe.

The Beatles Monument on Kok Tobe Hill Almaty

Luckily, I say with the sarcasm due, you can pay to take a bus or a cable car up said mountain and see the Beatles. And so of course we did. Thinking, in part, that we’d get a better view of the glorious mountains which have been hiding in the low clouds and rain, and then smog of the city. But no. The best views are blocked off. Of course.

Views of the Mountains from Kok Tobe

Ride the gondola up and take the bus back down if you’d rather not pay for the cable car twice.

  • How to get to Kok-Tobe Hill: the gondola station is near Hotel Kazakhstan in the city center; the ride up takes about 6 minutes. You can also take a bus from Omarova Street or Dosytk Avenue.

  • How long to spend at Kok-Tobe Hill: 1.5 to 2 hours.

  • Kok-Tobe Hill Transport: a one-way ticket on the gondola to Kok-Tobe costs 4,500 KZT; a return costs 8,000 KZT. If you want to take the bus, then there are two routes. The bus from Omarova Street is 2,000 KZT one way and 3,000 KZT round trip. From Dostyk Avenue, a one-way ticket costs 3,000 KZT and a round trip is 4,000 KZT

Visit the Original Almaty Apple Orchard

Almaty’s old name, Alma-Ata, translates roughly to “father of apples,” and there’s real science behind the nickname. The Malus sieversii, the wild ancestor of every domesticated apple on earth, was traced back to the forests around this city, and the connection is one Almaty is extremely proud of, from the apple-shaped everything to the apple stalls at the Green Bazaar and at the train station too.

We took a tour – to Big Almaty Lake – that also took us to the original apple orchard. It was interesting. But not that much. And the tour companies don’t go there anymore, so here’s a photo of the orchard for you instead.

Apple Orchard at Almaty Hills

And if you do want to head there, I’ve marked it on the map as well.

Map of Things to Do in Almaty

To help you get between all of the above, here’s a map showing where everything on this list actually is.

Almaty Map of Things to Do

Kazakhstan Experiences from Almaty

Almaty is a good base for taking day trips to some of the natural sights around the area. Of course you don’t have to visit these places on a day trip; you can go and stay in towns and villages closer to them, but the lack of public transport for tourists wanting to visit means that you’ll still be reliant on finding transport to get the “last 10 miles”, which is often harder than the rest of the trip.

In line with our plan to reduce the number of times we need to pack our backpacks, we’re using Almaty as a base to explore the surrounding area. So explored the apple orchard that made Almaty famous, the Big Almaty Lake, Kainde Lake, Charyn Canyon and Kolsai Lake.

I wrote about what you can expect on the marathon 17 hour day trip to see as much as possible in one day here, and also summed up the trips you can take from Almaty.

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Where to Eat and Drink in Almaty

Folks that we’ve met along the way in Central Asia have either raved about Almaty, or been desperate to get here for a “bit less Plov and some decent coffee”. And that’s not difficult here. There are not coffee shops on every corner, but it seems like every second shop is a coffee shop. Want a florist? Ok have a coffee bar in the corner of it. Barbers? Yep, coffee is a sideline. Or maybe the barbering is the sideline. Anyway. Coffee in abundance. You have so many choices here. Almaty’s food scene runs from traditional Kazakh and Uzbek cooking to craft breweries and cocktail bars, and these are the spots we kept returning to.

Drink Craft Beer in Almaty

Almaty has a proper craft beer scene these days, microbreweries and beer bars tucked into the same streets as the more traditional restaurants, and it’s a good note to end a day of sightseeing on. Which brings us neatly to where to actually eat and drink in the city.

I’ve marked the bars that specialize in craft brews on the map – you should look out for Line Brew, Privychki Bar (where the best sour beer was from), and the cocktail bar at the top of the Kazakhstan Hotel.

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For food, try Kulinariya Dastarkhan, Mar’ina Roscha, the fabulous Tarkhun National Cuisine, for traditional Kazakh dishes if you want the national cuisine done well. You’ll find hearty, traditional Kazakh cooking at BAUYRDAQ. Sandyk or sometimes Sandyq is a super option for an upscale Kazakh meal. Again I’ve marked them on the map. For the fuller country-wide picture on Kazakh food, see my guide to food and drink in Kazakhstan.

FAQs on Visiting Almaty

Here are the questions (and answers) that you never knew you had about Almaty.

How Many Days Do You Need in Almaty?

Two full days cover the highlights comfortably. Add a third if you want to slow down, or if you’re squeezing in a day trip like Charyn Canyon, Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes in 17 hours..

Is Almaty Walkable?

The central area is very walkable, and the one metro line plus cheap Yandex rides cover everything else easily.

What’s the Best Area to Stay in?

Central Almaty, roughly between Zhibek Zholy metro, Abay metro and Abylai Khan Avenue, puts you within walking distance of most of this guide.

Is Almaty Expensive?

No, it’s affordable by most standards. Food, transport and accommodation are all reasonable compared to Western Europe.

Do I Need a Car to Explore Almaty Itself?

No. Walking, the metro and Yandex Go cover the city easily without needing to rent anything.

Is Almaty a Good Base for Exploring the Rest of Kazakhstan?

Yes, it’s the natural base for the country’s best day trips and a common starting point for onward routes to Astana, Shymkent and Turkestan.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS

Final Words on Visiting Almaty

Almaty works both ways: as a destination worth its own two or three days, and as the gateway you’ll keep passing back through as you work your way around the rest of Kazakhstan. Think of it as the Bangkok of Central Asia. Give it the time it deserves rather than treating it as just a stopover, and you’ll leave with a really good feel for the country before you’ve even left its biggest city.

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