everest base camp dingboche to deboche

Dingboche to Deboche – Day 16 – Trek Everest Base Camp

It’s Day 16 of our trek to Everest Base Camp.  We’re on our second day of heading back home.  Today we’ll trek from Dingboche to Deboche, via a visit to the famous Tengboche Monastery.


Read a Day by Day Guide to Trekking to Everest Base Camp

After yesterdays snow, it’s another glorious day in Nepal.  And we have a lie in – our wakeup call doesn’t come until 7am, although now we’re all usually awake by 0530, even if we don’t move out of our sleeping bags.   Even breakfast seems to go down a little easier.  I suspect, though, it will be a long while before I will willingly eat eggs again.

Dingboche to Deboche

We’re heading down to Deboche today, with an optional (and it really is optional now) trip to the Tengboche Monastery.

Dingboche to Deboche Logistics

Dingboche to Deboche Distance

It’s 13 kilometres from Dingboche to Deboche, around 8 miles.   We lose around 600 metres in altitude.

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Dingboche to Deboche Time Trekking

We took 3 hours to trek from Dingboche to Deboche.

Dingboche to Deboche Map

Dingboche to Deboche Map
Dingboche to Deboche Trail

Once we set off, its cripsy underfoot, glorious clear skies with huffy clouds and the stark cleanliness that only fresh snow brings.

Views Dingboche to Deboche
Valley and the trail from Dingboche to Deboche

We head back down the way we came up to Dingboche, along the side of the river.  Then we go through Pangboche, although this time we miss the toilet with the cross bar.

Dingboche to Deboche

There are lots of folks heading up.

There are lots of folks heading up now.  As the cool of the early morning wears off, it gets muddier and there’s a drip of melting snow and the trickle of streams flowing towards the river below.

Dingboche to Deboche Views
Dingboche to Deboche River

We Try Austrian Hiking

We team up with the fast group, led, today by Meg, who, with a canny look at who he’s got in the group decides that we will do a little of what Margaret calls “Austrian hiking”.

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This involves finding a near vertical slope with no track.  There are many small bushes with strong branches.  We scramble across it.  One after another.

Quickly before the roots fail and the soils crumbles.  It’s probably as much exhilaration as I can take, so I’m glad its just this one slope that we traverse like that.

River Crossing Dingboche to Deboche

We scoot down and cross the river – this is a new bridge, the one further downstream, that was higher up was taken out by the last monsoon.

Bridges Dingboche to Deboche

The Two Nepal Trekking Seasons

There are two trekking seasons in Nepal.  Pre monsoon and post monsoon.  We’re in the pre monsoon season.  This year monson will start in early June, although trekking tends to slow down towards the middle of May.  The vast majority of Everest climbs take place during May.

With very little planned irrigation in Nepal, monsoon rain is relied upon by farmers across the country to provide for their growing needs.  It accounts for the reason that there is only, for many farmers, one rice harvest.  In China and some parts of Sri Lanka there might be three, but usually two.

Dingboche to Deboche River
Prayer Stones Dingboche to Deboche

It’s now a pleasant walk through the woods to the Deboche campsite, where we’re greeted by a huge selection of tents.

Deboche Campsite

The choice though it rather limited.  There are many broken zips and tears, so we mostly end up in the line furthest away from the dining room and the toilets.

Tents at Deboche

Flushing Toilets!

WHICH ARE FLUSHING!.  That’s right.  sit down, flushing toilets. There’s even a light.  It’s incredible the excitement that this causes.

Flushing Toilets at Deboche

Tengboche Monastery

After lunch in what is possibly the most cozy dining room we’ve been in, there’s an optional walk to the Tengboche Monastery – 45 minutes, says Ramesh  – we do it in 35.  It’s all uphill of course.  And here, in this most glorious of settings is the Monastery.  It’s where climbers come for their blessings, where you can drink Illy Coffee and get a slice of deep dish apple pie for US$5.

Prayer Stones at Tengboche

The Blessing Ceremony at Tengboche Monastery

We’re here for the blessing ceremony, which takes place at 3pm.   There’s quite a crowd by the time three o’clock comes around and we have to leave our boots outside, file silently in and take a place around the edges of the room, there are mats on the stone floor.  in some places.  There’s the really really horrible smell of 40 pairs of sweaty feet.

Buildings at Tengboche

And we listen for the next 20 minutes or so to the chanting and prayers of the three monks and finally as the effort of breathing through our mouths gets too much, we leave a small donation and head back the way we came to Deboche to check out those flushing toilets once more.

Prayer Stones at Tengboche

Essentials for an Everest Base Camp Trek

And… the most important thing…

Travel Tips for Exploring Nepal

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