Summiting Kalapathar – Day 15 – Trek to Everest Base Camp

It’s day fifteen of our trek to Everest Base Camp.  We’ve been there.  Now we just need to get back.  But first, we’re taking a climb up ANOTHER mountain, to get an incredible look at Everest.  This is Kalapathar and we’re going to the summit.  Hopefully.

THIS POST MAY CONTAIN COMPENSATED AND AFFILIATE LINKS MORE INFORMATION IN OUR DISCLAIMER

Read a Day by Day Guide to Trekking to Everest Base Camp

• Day 1: Lukla to Monjo
• Day 2 – Monjo to Namche Bazaar
• Day 3 – Namche Rest Day – Exploring the Khumbu Valley
• Day 4 Namche to Phortse Tenga
• Day 5 Phortse Tenga to Dhole
• Day 6 Dhole to Macchermo
• Day 7 Macchermo Rest Day
• Day 8 Macchermo to Gokyo
• Day 9 Gokyo Ri
• Day 10 Gokyo to Thangnak
• Day 11 Thangnak to Phortse Tenga
• Day 12 Phortse Tenga to Dingboche
• Day 13 Dingboche to Lobuche
• Day 14 Lobuche to Gorakshep
• Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp
• Day 15 Summiting Kalapathar
• Day 16 Dingboche to Deboche
• Day 17 Deboche to Monjo
• Day 18 Monjo to Lukla

The weather is a constant here.  It’s (usually) clear in the morning and then overcast and the clouds roll in in the afternoon.   At tea yesterday, the clouds rolled back, and the Himalayas put on the show of shows for us.  I feel saddened by the response of the folks on the table next to us, who declared that they’d “seen Everest” before turning back to their game of cards.

We’re clearly too new to this and also despite also having seen Everest before couldn’t help ourselves from racing outside just to look.  And marvel at yet another glorious Nepalese view.  I hope I never grow tired of this.  Ever.

To the Summit of Kalapathar

This morning, however, was tough.  I woke energy-less.  We were saved from a 0430 call by the fact that the kitchen folks wouldn’t be around, so 0500 it was.  Breakfast this morning will be later.

Just forcing down breakfast was hard work.  I was convinced I didn’t have the energy to get back down the mountain, let alone go further up.    It’s a constant battle – the internal one – the can you / can’t you discussion that goes on.  I have the discussion with the folks who are heading down the mountain from here at Gorakshep to Dingboche where we’ll spend the night.

But if I don’t try, I’ll never know wins out.  Actually, I also can’t possibly let Nigel do this without me.  He’d never let me forget it.  And so I go out with the group that’s heading to summit Kalapathar.

The Plan to Summit Kalapathar

Today’s plan is to summit Kalapathar – at 5643 meters, from our current 5140 here at Gorakshep, then stopping briefly back at Gorakshep, we’ll head back down to  Lobuche (where we stayed previously) for lunch and then onto Dingboche at 4410 meters, which is our stop for the night.

A reminder that if you need a medical evacuation by helicopter it will cost at least US$5,000. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Gorakshep to Dingboche Map

Three of the group, our Grannies – so named, because they are, have decided that they’ll head straight down, without going up Kalapathar, they’ll take lunch when they arrive at Lobuche and meet us tonight at Dingboche.  For the rest of us, it’s onwards and upwards.

I can’t do more than trudge across the semi-frozen field and stream outside Gorakshep.  The slope of Kalapathar looks immense. Almost impenetrable.

And it is tough.   We’re no longer a group.  We’re a series of individuals each doing battle with ourselves.  With our breathing and with our personal doubts.

Trekking at altitude carries risks. We insured ourselves through World Nomads – buying specific altitude coverage in case of altitude sickness. We were also able to renew our policy while out of our home country. Unfortunately, things can and do go wrong when you travel. World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more..

It’s misty on the way up, there’s a hint of sun behind it, and there’s a collective crossing of fingers that it will clear so that we’ll get the views that we’re hoping for at the top.  Still, that doesn’t stop us from taking photos all the way up, just in case.

The Stunning Views over the Khumbu Glacier

It’s another glorious Nepali day, and we get to see the Khumbu Glacier like never before.

It’s never really steep, just constantly sloping.  There’s a scramble over rocks in some places, and then a clamber up to the rocky outcrop at the top, where there’s a small crowd gathered.

We meet “the German dude” again.  We’ve either been tracking him or he’s been tracking us for days now.  We’ll be sat resting and he’ll saunter past.  Or we’ll turn a corner and he’ll be there, smoking.

There’s also another couple of Germans, they’re celebrating or dehydrating with a can of Everest beer.  I like beer.  In fact, we’ll end up having a pub crawl on our final day when we head from Monjo to Lukla, but now.  No thanks.

Yesterday, getting to Base Camp was THE bucket list item.  It was incredible.  But this is staggeringly beautiful.

We’re at 5643 meters – or 18, 000 + feet above sea level.   As Marty – our rescue helicopter pilot – points out to fly at this level in the USA you’ve got to have an instruments rating!

Trekking at altitude carries risks. We insured ourselves through World Nomads – buying specific altitude coverage in case of altitude sickness. We were also able to renew our policy while out of our home country. Unfortunately, things can and do go wrong when you travel. World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more..

It’s hard to drag ourselves away, but we have a long walk in store and so, legs lightened by the sheer beauty of our surroundings we head down.

En route we pass a few folks on the way up, encouraging them as we go.  Then there’s the mysterious woman with long immaculate blonde hair that we’ve seen several days in a row.  She’s sitting on a rock preening in the sun.  We never see her walking anywhere, there’s never a sign of sweat, or anything other than serenity.  And perfect hair.  I’m doing something wrong (and keeping my hat on to protect everyone!).

Although, when we get to Gorakshep it feels like we’ve already done a days trekking this is just the start.  Now we have to head off to Dingboche, although we’ll have a lunch stop at Lobuche.

Gorakshep to Lobuche

We arrive at Lobuche after a short drink stop at Gorakshep.  The grannies have gone, heading onto Dingboche, so we hustle eating and get going again.

Lobuche to Dingboche

Down past the monuments at the top of Thukla, down the slope that brought me to a halt on the way up, left before the tea house, and then we start to head across what I’d call the moors if I were home in Teesdale.

And then it starts to snow.  Well,  first it starts to drizzle, and then it quickly turns to sleet and then snow.  Before long, we join up with the fast group, as we’d be lost here without a guide and it’s hard to tell how far behind the others are.

It’s a cold, miserable trudge for the next hour or so.   There are no landmarks to indicate where we are.  Meg must have a homing beacon somewhere, as he doesn’t stumble once directionally taking us home for the night.

It is a huge relief to make it into the dining room, where, good to their word, the grannies have ensured that the yak poo stove is fired up and it’s toasty.

There’s laughter, as Ramesh arrives delivering Rod (who is still getting over the worst cold in the world) complete with a frozen white beard and declares he’s Santa Claus with frozen snot.   There are no photos to protect your innocent minds.

We’re on our way home now, and the mood seems lighter, the steps easier as we work out what our schedule will be for the coming days.

Tomorrow we’ll head to Deboche and spend the night there, then we’ll – after a lunch stop at Namche, be back where we spent our first night, Monjo, and then finally we’ll overnight in Lukla and pray to the gods of fine weather than our plane will arrive for us the following morning.

They’ll be long days, but you know what? It’s all downhill from here.   Apart from when it’s uphill, of course, this is after all Nepal.

Essentials for an Everest Base Camp Trek

• To do the Everest Base Camp trek, a medical evacuation by helicopter will cost at least US$5,000. The fittest member of our group was evacuated from Macchermo with altitude sickness. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
• Hiking Poles – these are lightweight, packable, and a great aid. Want more options for trekking poles? My guide to the best budget trekking poles is here.
• Good layering thermals
• Great sunglasses – the glare here is amazing- my Maui Jim sunnies have been to Everest Base Camp, and Macchu Picchu, they’ve sailed the Atlantic, and been to the Galapagos & Easter Island.
• Amazing socks – I’ve hiked in Bridgedale Socks for 8 years now and they’re amazing.
• If you’re looking for hiking boots on a budget – then here’s our guide to the best budget hiking books for men

And… the most important thing…

• A great team to trek with – you can check options here.

Travel Tips for Exploring Nepal

• Read about Nepal in these incredible books
• Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
• Book the best Nepal tours and guides on GetYourGuide, Klook, and Civitatis
• Save money in Nepal with a Wise debit card
• Book accommodation in Nepal with Booking.com and Hostelworld

We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using our affiliate links. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

ASocialNomad is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, amazon.co.uk, and amazon.ca. Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.