everest base camp trek gokyo to thangnak

Gokyo to Thangnak – Day 10 – Trek to Everest Base Camp

It’s Day 10 of our trek to Everest Base Camp.  After climbing Gokyo Ri yesterday we’re leaving this valley and heading from Gokyo to Thangnak.  This means we’ll trek over and then down the lateral moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier, before finding our lodge at Thangnak.  It’s only a couple of miles.


Read a Day by Day Guide to Trekking to Everest Base Camp

There’s also a landmark event today.   This is Manny – our youngest trekker at the tender age of 24 – he’s also our deepest sleeper and world champion snorer.  As well as toting a huge camera and lenses he’s consistent in the fact that he’s the last to arrive for breakfast each day.

Emotional pressures last night have created a miracle.  It’s 06:53 and Manny is at breakfast, look there’s proof!

Manny makes it for breakfast at Gokyo

And that’s because today we are only taking a short walk, but we have to climb up and over the lateral moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier and then walk across it.  Then we’ll walk down the side of it for a while and head towards our lodge for the night at Thangnak – where we’ll start for the Cho La pass tomorrow.

Gokyo to Thangnak Logistics

If you’re interested in the details of how far we trekked each day and what the altitude gain is, here are those details.

Gokyo to Thangnak Distance

The distance between Gokyo and Thangnak is 2.3 miles or 3.7 kilometers.

Gokyo to Thangnak Altitude Gain

The altitude of Gokyo is 4790m, and the altitude of Thangnak is 4700 m.  We haven’t made any progress on altitude today!

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Gokyo to Thangnak Time Trekking

It took us 2.5 hours to walk from Gokyo to Thangnak.

Gokyo to Thangnak Map

Gokyo to Thangnak Map

Spring Melt Means an Early Start

The problem is the spring melt.  And the fact that as the day warms up and we head down the side of the glacier we’re in an area of high rockfall, or avalanche.  Ramesh wants to get us past that point before it becomes too dangerous.  Yes, he actually said “too dangerous”.  While I focus on what that means, Manny is early.

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Gokyo to Thangnak Leaving Gokyo

Most of our boots have dried by the stove overnight and with thoughts of imminent rockfall in our minds, we’re off pretty quickly.


Upwards of course.  Always upwards.

Leaving Gokyo to trek to Thangnak

Then, there’s a short tricky downward slope, where some just take to the snow rather than the clamber down the boulders,

The trail from Gokyo to Thangnak

a few nervous looks to the right as we hear the trickle of small stones, and then we’re onto the glacier.  It’s not so pretty up close.

ASocialNomad at the Ngozumpa Glacier
The trail Gokyo to Thangnak
Walking from Gokyo to Thangnak
Encouragement from Lakpa en route from Gokyo to Thangnak

The lateral Moraine of Ngozumpa Glacier

And it’s not flat by any stretch of the imagination, but before long we’re on the far side, and leaving 10 meters or so between each person, we string out and make our way both quickly and tentatively (yes you can do both together) along this more dangerous spot.

Trekking down the side of the Ngozumpa Glacier

It’s never just flat, so there are a few ups and downs, and then we’re walking alongside a small stream, most of it under ice – and it’s a short day.  We’re there.

The tea house at Thangnak

Tashi Delek Lodge Signage Thangnak

Our home for the night is another eco-lodge – where we sleep in rooms of two beds.

Rooms at Thangnak

Where there are inside toilets.

indoor toilets at the Tashi Delek lodge Thangnak

A mirror that we all avoid.  And a dining room heated by a yak poo stove.

How Tea Houses are Heated

We’ve been in the Sagarmatha National Park since just we trekked from Monjo to Namche and there are strict rules about the burning of wood.  This whole area has suffered massive deforestation over the years and the burning of wood is not only forbidden but there’s probably not enough to go around.   Of course here, we’re now also above the tree line, and it doesn’t make sense to haul in wood to burn.

These stoves, which are never centered in the room, always slightly or most definitely off-center are stuffed full of dried yak poo.  Usually, they seem to be stuffed so full that there’s no air either in the stove or allowed in, so heating up takes a considerable while, then it burns fiercely for a short while and goes out. The boys can’t help themselves from wanting to help out and fix the situation.

Watching them being lit is fascinating.   – there’s a check to see that they’re fully stuffed, then anywhere between a few dribbles and half a liter of what looks like petrol is poured in and a burning set of matches or rags is dropped in until flames pour out of the hole at the top and then the lid is slammed down.

The Dining Room at the Tashi Delek Lodge Thangnak

We all instinctively move towards it until the heat starts to spread out through the room.  Even when the stove is going full steam most of us keep our red down jackets on.  The red down jackets were provided by our trekking company, World Expeditions.  Here’s the rest of the list of trek gear that we brought with us.  You cool down pretty quickly here.

Treatment for Head Colds

The red jackets also serve another purpose.   Some of us have a runny nose, and some of us have a cough.  Rod even has the worst cold in the world.  It might even be man flu.   So, when Dr. Ramesh makes his evening rounds (he does morning and lunchtime too) there’s the offer of a “steamy”.   A washy water bowl of hot water gets an addition of eucalyptus oil or balm, then – keeping your eyes tight closed – you stick your head over it, pull the red jacket over your head, and try and hold on breathing in through your nose (whatever part of it isn’t blocked)  for five minutes.

Trying to steam out head colds

It works.  It also ensures that you heat up to lava-like temperatures.  And it adds another layer of sweat to your hair.  But honestly, now who’s counting or looking.

Tomorrow is one of the big days of the trek.  Tomorrow we attempt the Cho La pass.

The Cho La Pass

We’re now at 4700 meters, we’ll go up to 5420 and then head down to Dzongla for the night at 4830 meters.    It’s not just the climb there’s a “rocky, icy – we might have to use ropes” conversation going on as well.   If anyone says that they are in their comfort zone, I suspect there are a few lies going on.   But heck, this is what we signed up for.

Reading the promotional materials it doesn’t mention that of course.  And when you read the details that tell you what altitude you’ll gain and how long the walks will be it doesn’t REALLY register.  At all.   When you read that the trek will be 6 hours and if you’ve never been to this altitude it’s not at all possible to consider how different it is to wandering around for 6 hours at sea level. Or even 2000 meters.  At 4,000 meters plus, it’s a completely different ball game.

So it’s with that in mind that we all head off to bed.  It will be a long day tomorrow, the promotional materials say 6-7 hours.  So on our recent experience, we can add 25% to that.  It’s going to be a long difficult day.

Essentials for an Everest Base Camp Trek

And… the most important thing…

Travel Tips for Exploring Nepal

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